Saint-Tropez has two food worlds. One is the quayside, where a coffee costs what a meal costs elsewhere and the show is part of the price. The other is the market, the bakeries, the lane restaurants and the vineyards, where residents eat and where visitors who are curious find better value and better flavour. This guide helps you move between the two without feeling that you missed either.
Start with the market
On Tuesday and Saturday mornings, the Place des Lices fills with stalls of tomatoes, peaches, melons, herbs, olives, cheese, sausages, honey and flowers. Even if you do not cook, it is the best place to buy picnic supplies and to see what is in season. Bring cash, taste before you buy where offered and look for stalls with queues of locals. Bread from a bakery, a ripe tomato, a slice of goat cheese and a handful of olives make a lunch that suits the beach.
The famous tart
The tarte tropezienne, a soft brioche split and filled with cream, is the town's signature sweet and was created in the 1950s. It is rich, so share a slice, and compare versions from different bakeries. A guided tasting walk is a fun way to hear the story and to meet other local specialities, and a longer food tour covers bakeries, delicatessens and cafes. Dietary restrictions are worth mentioning in advance, as the tart contains gluten, dairy and eggs.
Rose, the local drink
The wines of the surrounding vineyards are dominated by pale, dry rose, and it is served everywhere, from beach clubs to hilltop terraces. Look for bottles from the Provencal appellations and ask for recommendations. A wine tour into the hills teaches you how rose is made and lets you taste at the source, while a vineyard dinner pairs wine with a meal under the stars. Remember that rose is stronger than it looks, especially in the heat, so drink water alongside.
Reading a quayside menu
The terraces facing the harbour charge for the view. If you want to sit there, order a single drink, enjoy the scene and move on for lunch. For meals, walk one or two streets back, where menus tend to be shorter, cheaper and more local. Look for set lunch menus, daily specials and places that are busy with residents. Seafood, grilled fish, salads, pasta and Provencal dishes such as ratatouille and tapenade are safe choices.
Beach club food
Eating at a beach club is part of the experience at Pampelonne. Menus mix seafood, salads and grilled dishes, and prices reflect the setting. Book ahead in July and August, ask about minimum spends and consider lunch rather than dinner for a calmer scene. For a cheaper day, bring a picnic to the public stretches of sand and add a drink or ice cream from a nearby kiosk.
Village lunches
Ramatuelle, Gassin and Grimaud offer terraces under plane trees and menus that lean on local produce. Prices are generally lower than on the quay, and the pace is slower. Book dinner in summer, and be ready for early closing in the shoulder seasons. If you want a special evening, a vineyard dinner is a good splurge.
Breakfast and coffee
Many hotels serve breakfast, but a bakery visit is cheaper and often better. Pick up a croissant or a pain au chocolat and take a coffee at a counter rather than a table, which is usually cheaper in France. For a lazy morning, a seat on the Place des Lices under the plane trees is a pleasure.
Sweet and savoury snacks
Between meals, look for socca-style chickpea pancakes, pan bagnat sandwiches, fresh fruit from the market and sorbet from an ice cream counter. These are cheap, local and easy to eat on the move, and they keep the budget under control while leaving room for one memorable dinner. A bakery tray of small tarts also makes a good beach picnic dessert, packed in a cool bag.
Practical tips
Lunch is served from noon to around two, and dinner starts late, often after eight. Many restaurants close on certain days or for a break between services. Service is usually included, though a small tip is welcome for good service. Tap water is safe, and you can ask for a carafe. Check allergy information and tell staff about dietary needs. Finally, leave room for a sorbet or the famous tart as a sweet finish.