Cafe Hafa clings to the cliff in the Marshan district, about an 800-metre walk from Bab Kasbah, and it has been a meeting place since 1921. Its terraces step down toward the sea in several levels, with simple tables and chairs, whitewashed walls and an unobstructed view across the Strait of Gibraltar. The cafe drew artists, writers and musicians over the decades, and the list of visitors that locals mention includes Paul Bowles, William Burroughs, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones. Today it is still popular with both locals and visitors, who come mainly for mint tea, a pastry and the view. The atmosphere is relaxed and a little faded in the best way, with no hurry to leave. Sunset is the favourite hour, when the light turns golden and, on a long stay, the lights of Tarifa in Spain come on across the water.
The cafe has no fixed ceremony beyond finding a table, so arrive about an hour before sunset to claim a good spot on the lower terraces. Service is informal and prices are low, with mint tea the standard order, and you can stay as long as you like.
The upper levels are shaded and busy, while the lower tiers have the unbroken view and a little more breeze. The surrounding Marshan neighbourhood is a mix of residential streets and old villas, and the walk from the Kasbah to the cafe is pleasant if you prefer not to take a taxi.
Cafe Hafa is an old, informal business whose hours can shift with the season, so it is wise to confirm that it is open on the day you plan to go, particularly in Ramadan or in winter weather. Expect basic facilities rather than polish, and bring cash. The terraces are exposed, so pack a layer for the breeze, and a sun hat for midday.
It is a place for slowing down: a book, a notebook or a conversation fits well here. If you are in Tangier for the day on the ferry from Spain, Hafa is best saved for the end of the afternoon, though keep an eye on the time and the return crossing.
What to expect
The experience
A casual cliffside cafe with terraced seating, simple drinks and pastries, and a wide view across the Strait of Gibraltar.
Best time
About an hour before sunset, when the light is golden and the lower terraces fill up.
How long
One to two hours, or longer if you want to watch the lights come on.
Tips
Arrive early for a front-row table, bring cash and a layer for the breeze, and confirm it is open on the day of your visit.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Couples, writers and anyone who wants a classic Tangier view without a fuss.
- Families
- Fine for older children, but the stepped terraces have drops, so keep an eye on little ones.
- Couples
- Book nothing and simply arrive for the golden hour; the lower terraces are the most romantic.
- Pair with
- A Kasbah walk in the afternoon, then dinner in the medina.
- Time needed
- Allow about ninety minutes for tea and the sunset.
Good questions
When did Cafe Hafa open?+
It opened in 1921 as a gathering place for locals in the Marshan neighbourhood. It later attracted artists, writers and musicians from around the world.
What do you order at Cafe Hafa?+
Mint tea is the classic order, often with a pastry or something small to eat. Menus are simple and prices are modest.
When is the best time to go?+
Go about an hour before sunset to get a good table and watch the light change. On clear evenings you can see the lights of Tarifa across the Strait.
How do I get there?+
It is a walk of about 800 metres from Bab Kasbah through the Marshan streets, or a short taxi ride. Ask your driver for Cafe Hafa in Marshan.
Is it open in winter and during Ramadan?+
It is generally open, but hours and weather can change. Check on the day, especially in colder months or Ramadan.
