If you do one trip out of Tbilisi, make it this one. The Georgian Military Road climbs north from the capital into the Greater Caucasus, past the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir and the fortress church of Ananuri on its shore, over the ski slopes of Gudauri and the high Jvari Pass, and down into the valley of Stepantsminda, the town still widely known as Kazbegi. Above it, on a bare ridge, stands Gergeti Trinity Church, a small fourteenth-century stone church set against the white bulk of Mount Kazbek, one of the most photographed scenes in the Caucasus. The drive itself is half the joy: villages, watchtowers, sheep on the road and, at Gudauri, the curved mosaic of the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument hanging over a deep gorge. This page links to the best-reviewed group tour on Viator, a full day with a guide that stops at Zhinvali, Ananuri, the Gudauri viewpoint and Gergeti, with optional paragliding at Gudauri.
How to visit: Stepantsminda is about 150 kilometres from Tbilisi, which takes two and a half to four hours each way depending on stops and conditions, so the guided group tour runs about twelve hours. It leaves from central Tbilisi in the morning and returns in the evening; lunch is usually taken in the mountains at your own cost. The last stretch up to Gergeti Trinity Church is done by four-wheel-drive or on foot, and in snow the vehicles are the only sensible option. Private tours give more flexibility with photo stops and timing if you are a small group.
Winter conditions: the road is open year-round, but the section over the Jvari Pass between Gudauri and Kazbegi closes temporarily several times each winter for snow and avalanche risk, usually for a few hours and occasionally for one to three days. From November to February, put the Kazbegi trip early in your stay so you can move it if the pass shuts, check with the operator the evening before, and pack warm layers and boots with grip. Winter tyres are compulsory on this road. A new road and tunnel between Kvesheti and Kobi is being built to bypass the pass, but it is not expected to open fully until 2027.
Making the most of it: sit on the right side of the bus heading north for the reservoir and Ananuri views, bring cash for the four-wheel-drive and lunch, and cover shoulders and knees at the church, where women are asked to cover their hair. On a clear day, stay a while on the ridge; the light on Kazbek changes by the minute.
What to expect
The experience
A guided full-day group tour by minibus along the Georgian Military Road, with stops at Zhinvali, Ananuri, the Gudauri viewpoint and Gergeti Trinity Church.
Best time
Late spring to early autumn for the surest roads and green valleys; in winter the snow is magical but the Jvari Pass can close, so keep a spare day.
How long
About twelve hours door to door, with two and a half to four hours of driving each way.
Tips
Book it early in your stay, bring warm layers and cash for the four-wheel-drive and lunch, and cover shoulders and knees for the church.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors, photographers and anyone who wants to see the high Caucasus without a multi-day trek.
- Families
- Older children enjoy the mountain scenery and the four-wheel-drive ride, but it is a very long day for little ones.
- Couples
- Gergeti Trinity Church against the snows of Kazbek is one of the most romantic views in Georgia.
- Pair with
- A night at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi if you want to see the church at sunrise rather than at midday.
- Time needed
- A full day, or two days with an overnight in Stepantsminda.
Good questions
Is the road to Kazbegi open in November?+
The road is open year-round, but the Jvari Pass section can close temporarily for snow and avalanche risk from November to February. Closures are usually a few hours and occasionally one to three days, so keep a spare day.
How long is the drive from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?+
It is about 150 kilometres, which takes two and a half to four hours each way depending on stops and conditions. Guided day trips run about twelve hours in total.
How do you get up to Gergeti Trinity Church?+
From Stepantsminda you either hike up the hill, which takes an hour or more, or ride a four-wheel-drive along the track. In snow and ice, the vehicle is the safer choice.
What should I wear to Gergeti Trinity Church?+
Cover your shoulders and knees, and women are asked to cover their hair; scarves are often available at the door. Bring warm layers too, as it is cold and windy on the ridge even in summer.
Is lunch included on the Kazbegi tour?+
On the group tour lunch is usually at your own cost, at a restaurant in the mountains. Check the inclusions on the booking page before you go.
