Most wine tourists head east to Kakheti, but the Kartli region, west of Tbilisi, has a winemaking tradition just as old and far fewer visitors. This day tour takes you to a family winery in the countryside to taste natural wines, made in the traditional way with little intervention. The wines are fermented in clay qvevri buried in the ground, usually with the skins, seeds and stems of the grapes, which gives amber whites with a tannic grip, lively reds and a range of flavours unfamiliar to most European palates. You meet the winemaker, see the cellar and the vineyards, and taste straight from the vessels while your host explains the process. A long lunch of home cooking, often with bread, cheese, grilled meat and vegetable dishes, makes the visit feel like a meal with friends. It is an intimate, unhurried day and a good alternative for travellers who have already visited Kakheti.
How to visit
The tour leaves Tbilisi in the morning and drives about an hour or so to the winery in the Kartli countryside. You spend the main part of the day at the cellar, with a tasting and a lunch, and return in the afternoon or early evening. Check when you book how many wines are included, whether other stops are planned and whether the experience is private. Tell the organiser about dietary needs, and arrange a designated driver or use the tour transport.
What to expect
The tasting normally starts in the cellar, where the host explains the stages of making natural wine, from harvest to pressing, fermentation and ageing in qvevri. You taste several wines in sequence, perhaps including a pale, fresh white, an amber and a dark red, and your host answers questions about grapes, soils and the revival of traditional methods after the Soviet years.
Lunch is served at a long table, in the style of the Georgian supra, with toasts and stories. Some visitors take a turn in the vineyard or see the family’s other crops.
Context
Natural wine, a term that now appears on wine lists across the world, has roots in Georgian practice that is thousands of years old. In Kartli, family cellars have kept the tradition alive, and visiting them offers a more personal connection than a large winery. The region also has fortresses, churches and villages that make pleasant stops, and some operators include them in the itinerary. The tour pairs well with the Gori and Uplistsikhe trip, because both lie west of the capital.
Making the most of it
Come hungry, leave the next morning free and pace yourself with water between glasses. In autumn the harvest is in full swing and you may see grapes being pressed, which is a wonderful moment. If you want to buy bottles, ask about shipping or carry them in padded luggage. The tour suits couples, small groups of friends and wine lovers who prefer authenticity to polish.
Good to know
The winery is a working family business, so the programme depends on the season and the harvest, and the host may adjust the tasting if work in the vineyard demands. Wear casual clothes and sturdy shoes, because cellars can be damp and the ground uneven. If you would like to learn more, ask for a taste of the same grape made two ways, in clay and in steel, to understand the difference that the qvevri makes.
What to expect
The experience
A guided day trip to a family winery in Kartli for a tasting of natural qvevri wines and a long home-style lunch.
Best time
Autumn for the harvest, though spring and summer are also pleasant.
How long
About seven hours.
Tips
Come hungry, mention dietary needs and arrange safe transport home.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Wine lovers who want a small, personal winery visit.
- Families
- Better for adults; the focus is on wine and a long lunch.
- Couples
- Intimate, relaxed and delicious.
- Pair with
- The Kakheti day trip, to compare the two regions.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
What is natural wine?+
Wine made with minimal intervention, here fermented in clay qvevri with grape skins, seeds and stems.
Where is Kartli?+
Kartli is the region west and southwest of Tbilisi, with the winery about an hour or so from the city.
Is lunch included?+
The tour title includes lunch and a tasting; check the details when you book.
Is the tour suitable for non-drinkers?+
You can enjoy the lunch, the cellar and the countryside. Ask the host about juice and other options.
How does it differ from a Kakheti tour?+
Kartli is closer to Tbilisi, less crowded and often more intimate, with a focus on family producers.
