Every autumn, the Goldstream River just west of Victoria fills with returning salmon, and one of the great wildlife shows on southern Vancouver Island begins. Salmon typically appear around mid-October and can be seen for about nine weeks, so the season runs from mid-to-late October to early December, with dates varying each year. Chum salmon are the most abundant species and the one most visitors see, usually in large numbers in the main shallows, while coho are present in considerable numbers in some years and scarce in others, and Chinook numbers appear to be increasing since recent stream improvements. Females dig a redd, or nest, by turning on their sides and lifting their tails, then guard it while males compete nearby. The fish draw other wildlife, including cutthroat trout feeding on salmon roe, American dippers and gulls, and the dead fish return nutrients to the forest. Shy animals such as mink, raccoon and otter come out at night, and a bear is possible. The park's Nature House, at the heart of the viewing area, runs free interpretive programs and sells hot drinks and pastries. Early November falls well inside the usual season, so this is a good time of year to go.
Where and how to watch
Look for viewing spots up high, such as the top of banks and bridges, while staying on the trail. Coho tend to hide beneath logs and overhanging banks and use small tributaries or ditches, chum spawn in the main shallows, and Chinook are seen from the bank. Start at the Nature House, which offers free programs, a slide show on the life history of the bald eagle and information on eagles and other birds of prey.
Approach the riverbank slowly and quietly, do not throw anything into the water, and wear polarized sunglasses to cut glare on the surface. Lift small children onto your shoulders for a better view.
Visitor tips from the park group
Avoid bright clothing, especially reds, purples and pinks, and avoid weekend afternoons, when the park is crowded and parking is limited. Carpooling helps, and you should not leave valuables in your car. Keep dogs on a leash and out of the river, or leave them at home.
Bring binoculars for the eagles, which gather in growing numbers to feed on the carcasses, and the park group runs Eagle Extravaganza programs through the winter, starting in early December, for those who want to return when the salmon have gone, so check the dates.
Steelhead enter the river in winter and spawn in spring, so you are unlikely to see them during the salmon run.
Making it count
Allow an hour or two to walk the trails, visit the Nature House and watch the river, with time for a coffee. Go on a weekday morning for the best chance of quiet, and dress for rain and mud, since the forest is wet in November. The park is a short drive from downtown Victoria and lies on the way to the Malahat, so it pairs well with a visit to the Malahat SkyWalk on the same trip, and with a guided rainforest hike if you want more forest time.
It is free to watch the run, which makes it one of the best-value experiences in the region, though check the park information for any parking or day-use fees. If you miss the salmon, the park is still worth a visit for its old-growth forest and trails.
What to expect
The experience
A free walk along the Goldstream River to watch spawning salmon, eagles and other wildlife, with a Nature House for free interpretive programs.
Best time
Mid-to-late October to early December, on a weekday morning for fewer crowds.
How long
One to two hours for the trails, the river and the Nature House.
Tips
Avoid bright colours, bring binoculars and polarized sunglasses, carpool, and avoid weekend afternoons.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Wildlife lovers, photographers and families in autumn.
- Families
- Children enjoy watching the salmon, and you can lift small ones onto your shoulders for a better view.
- Couples
- A peaceful forest and river walk with wildlife.
- Pair with
- The Malahat SkyWalk, or a guided rainforest hike.
- Time needed
- One to two hours.
Good questions
When is the Goldstream salmon run?+
Salmon typically appear around mid-October and can be seen for about nine weeks, to early December, with dates varying each year.
Which salmon will I see?+
Chum are the most abundant and most commonly seen, coho are present in some years, and Chinook numbers appear to be increasing.
Is there a visitor centre?+
Yes, the Nature House offers free interpretive programs and information on eagles and other birds of prey.
Can I bring my dog?+
Keep dogs on a leash and out of the river, or leave them at home.
When is the best time to visit?+
Go on a weekday morning, since weekend afternoons are crowded and parking is limited. Dress for rain.
