Fairmont Empress

The Fairmont Empress is the hotel that defines Victoria. Its chateau-style roofline has watched over the Inner Harbour since the early twentieth century, when the Canadian Pacific Railway built it as a grand hotel for steamship travellers, and its address, 721 Government Street, puts you at the very centre of everything a first-time visitor wants to see. The hotel is famous above all for Tea at the Empress, the afternoon tea served in the Lobby Lounge, a tradition that spans more than a century and is worth booking even if you stay elsewhere. Q at the Empress is the main restaurant, cooking regional, locally sourced food that uses produce from the chef's own herb and vegetable garden, while Q Bar pours cocktails, wine and local craft beers, and The Veranda offers patio dining with harbour views in good weather. The Willow Stream Spa is one of the best on Vancouver Island, and there is an indoor pool and a fitness centre for rainy days. Rooms come in a wide range of types, from city-view rooms to harbour-view rooms and suites, and the property is entirely non-smoking and wheelchair accessible.

Location and getting around: step out of the front door and you are on the Inner Harbour causeway. The Parliament Buildings, the Royal BC Museum and Thunderbird Park are a few minutes' walk south, the whale-watching docks and the Harbour Air seaplane terminal are along Wharf Street, and Chinatown, Fan Tan Alley and the shops of Government Street are a short stroll north. Beacon Hill Park and Mile 0 are about fifteen minutes away on foot. You will not need a car in the city, though one helps for Butchart and the Malahat SkyWalk, or you can take a tour from the harbour.

Rooms and who it suits: the Empress is the choice for a special occasion, a first visit when you want the classic Victoria experience, and couples who will make use of the spa and the tea. Rooms vary in size and outlook, as in any historic hotel, so it is worth paying for a harbour-view room if the view matters; the city-view rooms are quieter but less memorable. Families appreciate the pool and the central location.

Good to know: book afternoon tea ahead, especially at weekends and through the holiday season, when the lobby is decorated and the tea is at its busiest. The hotel has a car park, but parking downtown is costly, so check the rate when you book. Rates are the highest in the city and climb in summer and on holiday weekends; November and the early weeks of December are often the best value.