Talat Sao

Talat Sao, the Morning Market, has been the commercial heart of Vientiane for generations. The name is a little misleading, because the complex now runs through much of the day, but the morning is still when the stalls feel most alive and the choice is widest. Today the market is split between an older section of open stalls and a modern shopping centre with air-conditioned floors, and both are worth a look. In the traditional areas, rows of vendors sell silk and cotton fabric, hand-woven sinh skirts, silver jewellery, wood carvings, lacquerware, coffee beans from the Bolaven Plateau, dried goods, and household items, while the upper levels of the modern mall carry electronics, phones, clothing and gold shops. A food court on the ground floor offers noodles, rice dishes and sweet drinks, which makes it a handy place for lunch. For visitors, the pleasure lies in the mix: textiles in jewel colours stacked next to piles of dried chillies, a jeweller leaning over a tray of silver rings, shoppers bargaining in several languages.

Good buys include Lao silk and cotton by the metre, finished scarves, silver ornaments, coffee, tea and woven bags. Quality varies, so look closely at stitching and ask whether the piece is hand-woven or machine-made; hand-woven pieces cost more and often carry tags from weaving cooperatives. Bargaining is customary but gentle: start at about two thirds of the first quoted price, smile and be willing to walk away. Cash in kip is the easiest currency, though many vendors will also take Thai baht or US dollars, and ATMs are available in the mall.

The best time to go is between early morning and late morning, before the heat builds. Wear light clothing, comfortable shoes and keep valuables close, as in any busy market. Bring a bag for purchases and a small amount of change. Hours differ between sections, so if you plan to visit in the afternoon, check which parts are open. The older stalls tend to close earlier than the air-conditioned mall.

Talat Sao works well as a short stop on a day of sightseeing, or as a place to spend a morning with an empty bag and a shopping list. It is within easy reach of the river promenade and the old centre, so you can combine it with a visit to Wat Si Saket and Haw Phra Kaew, then walk to a cafe for coffee. If you want to learn more about what you are buying, a local guide on a city or food tour can introduce you to stalls that sell genuine local products.

Travellers short on time can treat it as a quick look at everyday commerce in the capital, but those who like textiles will happily spend a couple of hours. In the evening the action moves to the river, where the night market takes over.

For a more focused browse, ask for textile stalls that mention village weaving groups, and look for the tiny labels that show natural dyes such as indigo, lac and teak leaf. Small packets of Lao coffee and dried tamarind make good gifts, and fabric can be tailored in the city within a few days if you ask early. Watch for sellers who move quickly from a high first price to a fair one, and enjoy the haggling as part of the show.