Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge

Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge protects a long strip of barrier island, dunes, freshwater marsh and open bay on the far southern edge of Virginia Beach. At more than 9,000 acres, it is one of the largest stretches of wild land in the city and a vital stop for migrating birds on the Atlantic Flyway. Visitors come for the quiet, the birdwatching and the simple pleasure of walking a trail where the loudest sounds are wind in the reeds and wings overhead. In the colder months huge flocks of snow geese, tundra swans and ducks arrive, while spring and fall bring warblers and shorebirds in great variety. The refuge is reached through a visitor contact station with a small exhibit area, restrooms and trailheads. From here, several trails lead through dune, forest and marsh, including routes that connect with neighboring False Cape State Park, which is accessible only by foot, bike or boat. The refuge also offers a freshwater impoundment where waterfowl gather, and the dunes provide a sweeping view toward the Atlantic.

Access to the beach is part of the experience, but it comes with rules. Parts of the refuge shoreline are protected nesting habitat, and certain areas are seasonally closed to protect birds and sea turtles. Check the current notices at the visitor station or on the refuge website before you set out, stay on marked trails and keep dogs where they are permitted and on a leash.

Cyclists will find the flat paths a good fit, though sand can be soft and the route to False Cape is long, so bring plenty of water and consider the weather.

The seasons shape what you see. From late fall through winter, the impoundments are alive with waterfowl, and a pair of binoculars turns a simple walk into a field trip. Spring brings the first warm days, migratory songbirds and the first loggerhead turtle tracks on the sand. Summer is hot and humid, with biting insects in the marsh, so go early or late and carry repellent. Autumn is arguably the best time of all, with clear air, migrating raptors and comfortable walking temperatures across the dunes.

Back Bay fits neatly into a day of nature stops. Combine it with the Virginia Aquarium and its Adventure Park, which are only a short drive north, and with the quiet beach community of Sandbridge, where you can find seafood and a laid-back shoreline. The refuge is also a good choice for visitors who want to avoid the busiest beach crowds, because even on a hot summer weekend you can find solitude on its trails.

Photographers, birders, cyclists and anyone who simply wants a reset from the neon of the Oceanfront will find it deeply rewarding.

One more reason to go is the contrast it offers. Within a few miles you can move from the lights and music of the resort strip to a place where the horizon is simply sky, reeds and water. Many locals visit at dawn for sunrise photography, when the marsh grass glows and herons stand motionless in the shallows.

Bring a field guide or a bird identification app, and consider downloading offline maps since cell coverage can be patchy. If you stay for sunset, pack a flashlight and leave the trail before dark, as the refuge has no lighting and the insects emerge at dusk.