St Anastasia Cathedral

The Cathedral of St Anastasia is the largest cathedral in Dalmatia, and it rises next to the Roman Forum like a calm, pale giant. Built mainly in the 12th and 13th centuries on the site of an earlier church, it is a fine example of Romanesque architecture along the Adriatic. The facade is divided into bands of blind arches, with an elegant rose window above the main door, and the whole front glows warmly in the afternoon sun. Beside it stands the bell tower, which was completed in the early twentieth century after centuries of unfinished construction. The English architect Thomas Graham Jackson designed the later stages, and the result is a graceful tower in a style that blends in with the older church. Climbing it is one of the best ways to see Zadar from above.

Inside, the cathedral is tall and plain in the best medieval way, with a nave divided by columns and a number of notable works of art. Look for the 9th century sarcophagus of St Anastasia, the Dalmatian patron of the city, and for the carved choir stalls and altar details that survived centuries of rebuilding. The interior atmosphere is quiet and cool, which is a welcome relief in summer.

The bell tower climb is the main draw. A series of stairs leads to an upper terrace, with views stretching over the red tile roofs of the old town, the marina and the channel, and out across the water to the island of Ugljan. On clear days the Velebit mountains appear on the horizon, which helps you understand why Zadar developed as a sea gateway at the foot of a rugged coast.

The climb is steep in places, so allow time and take it slowly, and avoid it if you have mobility concerns or a fear of heights.

Opening times vary between seasons and depend on services, so check on arrival. Dress codes apply to the cathedral interior: cover shoulders and knees, and speak quietly. The bell tower is generally accessible to visitors with a small ticket, and the terrace is best in the morning or late afternoon, when light is soft and the heat is lower.

The location is ideal for a cultural half day. The Forum, St Donatus, the Archaeological Museum and the waterfront promenade are all within five minutes on foot. If you take a guided walk, the cathedral is usually a highlight stop. A good guide will point out features that are easy to miss, including the carved capitals, the faded fresco fragments and the layered construction that reflects centuries of rebuilding after fires and conflict.

For photographers, the cathedral facade is at its best in late afternoon, while the view from the tower works well at any time of day. Bring water and a hat in summer, and wear shoes with decent grip for the narrow staircase.