Zadar eats well and without pretension. The cooking is Dalmatian, based on the sea, olive oil, vegetables and the hard cheeses and cured meats of the nearby islands, and the city is small enough that you can sample a lot in a few days.
Seafood first
The Adriatic gives Zadar its signature plates: grilled fish, squid, octopus salad, black risotto and brodet, a stew of mixed fish served with polenta. Most restaurants show the day's catch and weigh the fish at the table, so you pay by weight. Ask what is fresh and choose a whole fish for sharing. Mussels from the Novigrad and Ljubački bays and oysters from nearby farms also turn up on menus.
Cheese, ham and lamb
Pag Island, an hour north, produces Paški sir, a hard sheep cheese with a salty, herbal flavour. Look for it on starter boards with olives, honey and pršut, a dry-cured ham from the hinterland. Lamb is a speciality in the region, often roasted slowly under a bell-shaped lid called peka. Peka dishes often need ordering in advance, so ask when you book a table.
Olive oil and wine
Zadar's islands and hinterland produce excellent olive oil, and the local wines include white varieties such as Pošip and Debit and red from Plavac Mali, though the latter grows more in the south. Tasting experiences and food tours in the old town are a convenient way to meet producers. Dalmatian wine is often good value in restaurants, and house wine is a safe choice.
Maraschino
The city's famous drink is maraschino, a cherry liqueur made from the Marasca cherry, first produced in Zadar in the nineteenth century. It has a delicate almond-cherry flavour, and it is served as a digestif or used in cocktails. Look for local producers in the old town shops and consider a bottle as a souvenir.
Where to eat
The old town has the highest concentration of restaurants, from simple konobas serving home cooking to polished seafood restaurants. Side streets away from the main squares are often better value than tables on the Riva. A fresh produce market in the town centre sells fruit, cheese, ham and dried figs in the morning, and it is worth a visit for picnic supplies.
Coffee, sweets and breakfast
Croatians drink coffee slowly and often. A cafe terrace in the Forum area or on the waterfront is the place to spend an hour in the morning. Bakeries sell burek, pastries with cheese or meat, and sweet items such as fritule, small fried doughnuts, at festivals. Ice cream shops are everywhere in summer, and the quality is high.
Beer and craft drinks
A small craft beer scene has grown in the area, with tastings available at local breweries, and gin and brandy distilleries offer tours. These can be good rainy day options.
Practical tips
Lunch is the main meal, and many restaurants offer set menus at midday. Dinner usually starts after seven. Service is not always included, and a tip of around ten percent is customary for good service. In summer, book popular places, especially on weekends. Many restaurants close one day a week outside high season. If you have dietary needs, ask about options early: vegetarian dishes exist, but menus lean on fish and meat.
A sample day
Coffee and a pastry in the old town, a food tour or market visit at midday, a swim in the afternoon and a seafood dinner by the water, finished with a glass of maraschino as the sky goes dark.
Market morning
Visit the fresh produce market early, when stalls are full of tomatoes, figs, cheese, honey and herbs. Locals chat with sellers, and you can buy a picnic to take on a boat day or a drive to Krka. Bring cash and a bag, and ask before you taste.
Food on the islands and in the hinterland
On day trips you will meet different dishes. On Pag, expect lamb and cheese. In the Velebit foothills, expect grilled meat and smoked ham. On the coast near Nin, look for salt and seafood. Each stop adds a layer to your understanding of Dalmatian cooking.
Vegetarian and special diets
Dalmatian menus lean on fish and meat, but you can find grilled vegetables, soups, pasta with tomato sauce, salads, risotto and cheese plates. Tell the waiter early, and in small restaurants be ready to ask for a simple custom dish.