Pag Island Day Trip

Pag is unlike any other island on the Croatian coast. It is long, narrow and almost bare of trees, a pale grey limestone landscape shaped by the bora wind and by centuries of sheep grazing. The result is austere and striking, a landscape often compared to the moon. The island is famous for its pršut and lamb, for Paški sir, a hard sheep cheese with a distinctive herbal flavour, for its lace, a delicate craft recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage, and for the salt pans near Pag town. Zadar is the best base for a day trip, since the island is linked to the mainland by a bridge and is about an hour's drive away. Small group tours combine hiking, the old town of Pag and local tastings.

Pag town itself is a compact grid of stone streets laid out in the fifteenth century by the architect Juraj Dalmatinac, who also worked on the Šibenik cathedral. The centre includes the Church of the Assumption, a ruined bishop's palace and a lace museum or workshop where you can watch women create intricate pieces by hand. Shops sell lace, salt, cheese and olive oil. Evenings are quiet, with a few good restaurants serving lamb and seafood.

The cheese is the star. Paški sir is made from the milk of sheep that graze on aromatic herbs and salt-sprayed grass, giving it a sharp, slightly salty taste. Many tours include a visit to a family cheese maker where you taste different ages of the cheese, usually with honey, olives and bread. A cheese tasting is one of the best ways to understand the connection between landscape and food on the island.

For the landscape, walking is the best option. Hiking routes lead through low scrub and stone walls to viewpoints over the sea and the mainland. Small group hikes combine this with the old town, while private tours allow you to adapt the programme. Be prepared for exposure to wind and sun, since there is little shade on the island.

The island also has beaches, particularly near Novalja on the north-west side, where the party scene of Zrće attracts a young crowd in summer. For a quieter trip, stay in the south, with its fishing villages and peaceful bays.

Plan around a full day. Bring sun protection, comfortable shoes, a windproof layer and water. Check the weather, as strong wind can make the bridge crossing and the sea less pleasant. Many visitors combine Pag with Nin on the same day, since Nin lies on the way.