No account of Ghana is complete without the Ashanti, and Kumasi, their capital, is the place to meet them. The city stands in the forest belt about four to five hours north of Accra, and it is still the seat of the Asantehene, the Ashanti king. A cultural tour takes in the Manhyia Palace Museum, once the royal residence and now a museum of Ashanti history and regalia, along with other highlights such as the story of Komfo Anokye, the priest said to have called the Golden Stool down from the sky. Most programmes also visit markets, craft villages and the national cultural centre. It is a rewarding extension for visitors who want to learn about the kingdom behind the gold, kente and drums.
Getting there
The road from Accra to Kumasi runs through the Eastern and Ashanti regions, a journey of about four to five hours depending on traffic. Because of the distance, many visitors choose a two-day programme with a night in Kumasi, though some operators run it as a very long day. Domestic flights are an alternative. Confirm the schedule, transport and any lodging when you book.
Manhyia Palace Museum
The palace complex includes a museum in the former residence built for the Asantehene in the early twentieth century. Guides lead visitors through rooms of regalia, photographs and royal furniture, and explain the line of Ashanti kings, the role of the queen mother and the importance of the Golden Stool, the symbol of the Ashanti nation. The stool itself is not on display, but the stories around it are told in detail. Dress modestly, and ask before taking photographs, as rules apply in some rooms.
The city and its sights
Kumasi is known as the Garden City, with large markets such as Kejetia, one of the biggest open-air markets in West Africa. A visit gives a sense of the scale and energy of trade, but it is crowded, so a guide is a real help. Other stops often include the Kumasi Fort and military museum, the Cultural Centre at Prempeh II Jubilee Museum and nearby craft villages, such as Bonwire for kente weaving and Ntonso for adinkra cloth. Seeing the looms and stamps at work is a highlight.
Komfo Anokye and the sword
The sword said to be planted by Komfo Anokye in Adum is a landmark of Ashanti folklore, and the story that goes with it is an introduction to the founding of the kingdom. Guides tell it with relish. Plan to leave early from Accra, carry water, wear comfortable shoes and bring some cash for crafts.
The dry season from November to March gives easier travel, while festivals such as Akwasidae, held on a six-weekly cycle at the palace, add colour if timing allows. A trip to Kumasi is a long haul, but it gives the other half of the story that Cape Coast and Accra begin, and it is well worth the time for history-minded travellers.
Before you go, read a short account of the Ashanti kingdom, the Golden Stool and the wars with the British, so the guide's stories make more sense. Respect local customs: remove hats in the palace, use your right hand to give and receive, and greet elders politely. If you visit on an Akwasidae day, expect crowds and a dress code that favours dark or traditional cloth, and book lodging early.
What to expect
The experience
A guided cultural tour of Kumasi, centred on the Manhyia Palace Museum and the Ashanti story, usually over two days from Accra.
Best time
The dry season from November to March, and Akwasidae days for extra pageantry.
How long
One long day or two days with an overnight stay.
Tips
Leave early, dress modestly at the palace, ask about photography rules and confirm lodging and transport.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History and culture lovers who want to meet the Ashanti story.
- Families
- Better for older children because of the long drive.
- Couples
- A rich cultural side trip for two.
- Pair with
- Cape Coast Castle on a separate day.
- Time needed
- One to two days.
Good questions
How far is Kumasi from Accra?+
About four to five hours by road, depending on traffic.
What is the Manhyia Palace Museum?+
A museum in the former residence of the Asantehene with displays on Ashanti history and regalia.
Can I see the Golden Stool?+
No, the stool is not displayed, but guides explain its importance.
Is Kejetia Market worth visiting?+
Yes, as one of the largest markets in West Africa, but go with a guide as it is crowded.
Do I need to stay overnight?+
Most visitors do, because the drive is long, though some operators run a one-day version.
