Askja and Víti

Askja is one of the most remote and dramatic places reachable from Akureyri. It is a huge volcanic caldera in the Dyngjufjöll mountains in the central highlands, formed by collapse after a series of eruptions, and it holds Öskjuvatn, a deep lake filled with dark blue water. On its edge lies Víti, a smaller explosion crater with a warm, milky turquoise pool, created by a violent eruption in 1875 that dropped ash across Scandinavia. Around the caldera, black lava fields and pale pumice stretch to the horizon, giving the place an otherworldly look that was used by astronauts for lunar training in the 1960s. Reaching Askja takes effort, which is part of its appeal. The roads are rough mountain tracks that cross rivers and lava, and they are open only for a short season, roughly from late June or July to September, depending on snow. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are essential, and most visitors go on a guided 4x4 trip, which spares them the stress of navigation and river crossings and gives them a driver who knows the road and conditions.

A typical day starts early in Akureyri and runs along the Ring Road toward Mývatn, then turns south onto highland track F88 toward the Herðubreiðarlindir oasis and the Askja base area. The scenery changes from farmland to lava desert and the distinctive flat-topped mountain Herðubreið, sometimes called the queen of Icelandic mountains.

At the Askja base hut, a walk of a few kilometres leads across a lava field to the caldera, where Víti and the lake come into view. The whole day can run from ten to fourteen hours, so it suits people who enjoy long, adventurous excursions.

At Víti, a path descends the crater wall to the shore of the milky pool. In suitable conditions visitors can swim in the warm water, which is a famous but demanding experience, since the walk is slippery and the water temperature and conditions vary from year to year. Check conditions with your guide, and never swim if the area is closed or if it feels unsafe.

A towel, a swimsuit under your layers and a warm change of clothes are worth carrying if you hope to try. The nearby Öskjuvatn lake is deep, cold and typically viewed from the rim rather than entered.

Weather in the highlands is unpredictable. Even on a sunny day in Akureyri, the caldera can be windy, cold and foggy, and snow can fall in any month. Dress in warm layers with waterproofs, sturdy walking boots, a hat and gloves, and bring a packed lunch and water, as services are limited. Tours may be cancelled or changed if rivers are too high or the roads are not passable, and your operator will provide the details on refunds or alternatives.

Askja is not for everyone, but it rewards the effort. Travellers who like solitude, wide horizons and geology will find it unforgettable. If you want something easier, consider the Mývatn and Krafla area, which has its own crater lake at Víti, a different explosion crater with the same name. Because the highland season is short, book early for July and August, and plan your day with flexibility. Photographers should bring a wide lens and a spare battery, as cold drains power quickly.