The Candy Cane Mountains are a stretch of hills in the north of Azerbaijan whose slopes are banded in vivid stripes of red, pink, ochre and cream. The colours come from layers of different minerals and sediments that have been tilted and eroded over millions of years, and in low sun the effect is startling, like a landscape painted by hand. The hills are best known for their photographs, but they are also a pleasant place to stroll, with grassy slopes, sheep tracks and long views across the plain. The usual day trip links them with Guba, a green town known for its apple orchards and a historic quarter on the far bank of a river, and with the Shahdag mountain resort, where a modern cable car and a ski area open the high Caucasus to visitors. You do not need to be a hiker or a skier: the stops are short, and the roads are paved up to the resort.
A typical day
The group leaves Baku in the morning and drives north along the coast and then inland, passing orchards and villages. After a first stop at the Candy Cane hills for photographs and a short walk, the tour continues to Guba for a look at the town and a meal, then climbs to Shahdag for views of the peaks.
Entry fees and lunch are included in some tours but not others, so check the details when you book. The product linked here is a day tour of Guba, Shahdag and the Candy Cane Mountains and is well rated by travellers, with several hundred reviews.
Choosing between day trips
The Candy Cane Mountains day is a good compromise if you want mountains without the longest drives. It is shorter than a trip to Sheki and less demanding than a trip to Khinalig, and it gives you a mix of landscape, town and resort in one day. If you have two days, you can combine this route with the Khinalig village excursion and overnight in Guba, or choose a tour that does both in one long day.
Seasons and tips
Spring and early summer bring green slopes and wildflowers, and autumn light is excellent for photographs. In winter the resort operates as a ski destination, and the hills can be snow-dusted, so bring waterproof shoes and warm clothes. Weather in the mountains can differ greatly from Baku, so pack layers and sun protection. Light is best in the morning or late afternoon, when the stripes show strongly. Do not walk on fragile slopes in wet weather, because the surface turns slippery. Follow the guide on any unmarked paths.
Extra planning notes
Because the hills are exposed, there is little shade in summer, so bring a hat and water. If you hope to photograph the stripes, ask the guide to prioritise the hills early or late in the day, and stay on established tracks to protect the slopes. In Guba, a short stroll through the old quarter and a look at the local carpets and orchards makes a good break from the car. At the resort, check which lifts and terraces are open on your date, since operations vary by season and weather.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day group or private road trip north from Baku with photo stops at the striped hills, a visit to Guba and a trip up to the Shahdag mountain resort.
Best time
Morning or late afternoon light for the colours. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons.
How long
Ten to twelve hours including the drive and stops.
Tips
Pack layers and waterproof shoes, check what is included in the price and stay on marked paths on the hills.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Photographers and anyone who wants a scenic mountain day without the longest drive.
- Families
- A good choice for families, with short walks, a town stop and a resort with easy lifts.
- Couples
- Time the hills for golden light and linger over lunch in Guba.
- Pair with
- Khinalig village, an overnight in Guba or a winter day at Shahdag.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
Why are the hills striped?+
The stripes are bands of different minerals and sediments that were tilted and eroded over a very long time. The colours look strongest in low light.
How far are they from Baku?+
The drive is a few hours each way, depending on traffic and the exact stops. Tours usually fit the hills, Guba and Shahdag into one day.
Can I ski at Shahdag?+
The resort has ski facilities in the cold months and lifts that run at other times for views. Ask the operator what is open on your date.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes. Stops are short, the scenery is varied and there is room to run around. The drive is the main challenge for younger children.
Can I combine it with Khinalig?+
Some tours do both in one very long day, and others split them over two days with an overnight stay. Ask the operator for the route.
