Within a couple of hours of the capital, the Caspian steppe turns into something closer to a painter's palette. This trip links four stops that most visitors never find on their own. The salt lake near Baku can take on a pink or rose tint in the warm months when algae and salt crystals do their work, and even when the colour is faint the flat white shore and endless sky make an unusual photograph. Beshbarmag, whose name means five fingers, is a long limestone ridge with a hilltop shrine and wide views over the steppe and, on a clear day, the sea. The Candy Hills, a stretch of banded clay and sandstone in red, ochre and grey, look striped from a distance and almost lunar up close. The tour finishes at the Bibiheybat Mosque, a reconstructed shrine on the bay that adds a gentle cultural close to a day of landscapes.
Choosing the day
The lake is at its best on dry, sunny days in the hotter months, when the water is shallow and the colour deepest. After rain or in winter the effect is weak, so ask your operator how the lake looks on the date you travel, and treat the other stops as the main event if the colour is poor. The ridge and hills look good in any season, and low autumn light is a favourite with photographers.
What the day feels like
The drive passes through dry scrub and gas fields before the landscape opens up, so the journey is part of the point. Walking is easy on the flat salt shore, and moderate on the slope to the Beshbarmag viewpoint, where paths can be loose and stony. A small group keeps the pace relaxed, and a guide explains the legends tied to the ridge and the shrine.
Practical points
Bring sun protection, because there is almost no shade, and closed shoes for the hills. Carry water and snacks, as the stops are remote and facilities are basic. The clay hills turn slippery after rain, so a wet-weather day may change the route. Dress modestly for the mosque visit at the end and carry something to cover your shoulders and head if needed.
Who it suits
Photographers, travellers who have done the city and want something quieter, and families with older children who enjoy landscapes. It pairs well with a Gobustan day, because the two trips share a corner of the country but offer very different scenery. Check the current itinerary when you book, as operators adjust the order and stops with the season.
A few more things worth knowing
The roads out to the lake and hills are partly rough, so a vehicle with decent clearance makes the day more comfortable, and a small group is easier to manage on narrow tracks than a large coach. Phone signal can be patchy, so download maps and agree a meeting point and time before you spread out to take pictures. Many guides keep a stock of cold drinks and fruit in the car, but it is worth carrying your own as well.
If you are travelling with a drone, check the rules and ask permission, since flying near protected or sensitive sites is restricted. Finally, leave the stones, salt crystals and plants where they are, so that the landscape stays as striking for the next visitors as it is for you.
What to expect
The experience
A guided half-day to full-day trip by road to a salt lake, the Beshbarmag ridge, the banded Candy Hills and the Bibiheybat Mosque.
Best time
Dry, sunny days in summer for the strongest lake colour; autumn afternoons for soft light on the hills.
How long
Roughly four to six hours, including drives between the stops.
Tips
Bring sun protection, water and closed shoes, and cover your shoulders and head for the mosque.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Photographers and anyone who wants an unusual landscape within easy reach of the city.
- Families
- Fine for older children; there is little shade and no facilities at the stops, so pack water and snacks.
- Couples
- Go late in the day for soft light across the ridge and the striped hills.
- Pair with
- A Gobustan and mud volcano trip on another day.
- Time needed
- Half a day to a full day.
Good questions
Is the lake always pink?+
No. The colour depends on season, weather and the amount of algae and salt, and is strongest in dry summer weather. Ask your operator how it looks on your date.
How hard is the walk at Beshbarmag?+
It is moderate. The slope to the viewpoint is stony and loose in places, so wear closed shoes and take your time.
Is there shade or a place to eat?+
Very little. Carry water, snacks and sun protection, and ask whether lunch is included.
Can I visit the mosque in shorts?+
Dress modestly, with covered shoulders and knees, and carry a scarf for your head if you are asked to cover it.
Is it a good option in winter?+
The landscape is still striking, but the lake loses its colour and the tracks can be muddy. Check the forecast and the route with your operator.
