Where you sleep in Bolivia shapes your trip more than in most places, because of altitude, steep streets and long tour pickups. La Paz has three useful bases, and Uyuni has two. Here is how to choose.
Downtown La Paz: the sights on foot
The historic center and the tourist streets around Calle Sagarnaga put you within walking distance of the Witches Market, San Francisco Plaza and many museums, and almost every tour operator has an office nearby. The cost is noise, steep climbs and altitude at the high end of the city, around 3,600 meters. For a budget stay, Hotel Sagarnaga sits on the tourist street itself, a basic, central address for backpackers and independent travelers who want early tour pickups at the door. For more comfort, Stannum Boutique Hotel and Spa is a four-star boutique hotel in the downtown area with a spa, a good fit for first-timers and couples who want to be central but sleep well.
Zona Sur: quiet, lower and polished
The southern zone, or Macrodistrito Sur, sits lower than the center, so the air is slightly thicker and the climate milder. It is home to restaurants, embassies and leafy streets, and it is the way to Valle de la Luna. The trade-off is distance, with a taxi ride of twenty to thirty minutes to the old town. Atix Hotel, a Member of Design Hotels, is our upscale pick here, with modern rooms and a calm setting. It is a good choice if you struggle with altitude, if you want a more relaxed stay, or if you are traveling with family.
El Alto: for the airport and early flights
The plateau above the city is where the airport and the cholitas wrestling are, but it is high, cold and not a leisure base. Sleep there only for an early flight, and otherwise stay in the city proper. We have no hotel there, and most travelers will not miss it.
Uyuni town: practical and close to tours
Uyuni is small and flat, with tour agencies, restaurants and the departure points for the salt flat tours. Hotel Jardines de Uyuni is our mid-range choice, a comfortable base for the night before a day or multi-day trip, with pickups from the door. If you are doing the three-day lagoons expedition, stay a night here before and after, and store your large bag at the hotel.
The salt flat edge: the splurge
Hotel Palacio de Sal sits near Colchani at the edge of the Salar de Uyuni and is built largely of salt blocks. It is the place for a sunrise or sunset on the flat with a comfortable bed in between, and it pairs well with the one-day tour. It is remote, so expect to eat at the hotel and arrange transfers.
How to choose
For a first trip of a week, split the stay: three or four nights in La Paz, one night in Uyuni town and one at the salt flat edge. If budget is tight, use Hotel Sagarnaga and Hotel Jardines de Uyuni, and spend the savings on tours. If comfort matters most, combine Atix in La Paz with Palacio de Sal at the Salar. Whatever you choose, ask about heating, hot water, luggage storage and breakfast times, since early tour pickups are the norm. Book ahead for the dry season from May to October and for the Christmas and Carnival periods, and allow a buffer for transfers, because strikes and road blockades can slow every journey.
