The salt works at the southern end of Bonaire are the island’s defining landscape. The Tourism Corporation Bonaire explains that salt was a cause of conflict among European powers and that the Dutch takeover of Bonaire nearly four centuries ago highlighted its value. Production slowed after slavery was abolished in 1863 and continued with the market, and in the 1960s a US company designed solar salt works that revitalized the industry; today Cargill runs the operation, and huge mounds of crystals rise beside the road. The flamingo reserve sits within the salt company’s land, so entry is prohibited to protect the birds, but flamingos can be seen from the road and from nearby Pink Beach. The Pekelmeer sanctuary is described as one of only four areas in the world where flamingos breed and is home to over ten thousand of them. Along the shore, tiny huts dating from 1850 recall the enslaved workers who raked salt, and four obelisks painted red, white, blue and orange once guided ships in to load cargo. Bring binoculars and a camera.
Why it works
In one short drive you see the island’s economy, history and wildlife at once. The salt mounds are a surprise, the pink pools are a delight and the huts are a reminder of the human cost behind the industry. The Tourism Corporation notes that the huts were camping facilities for enslaved workers in the salt ponds, who walked about seven hours to Rincon on Fridays to spend the weekend with their families and returned on Sundays, which gives the low stone buildings real weight when you stand beside them.
Visiting well
This is a drive-through landscape, so go by car, bicycle or taxi, and stay on the public roads. Do not enter the flamingo reserve, since the page states plainly that tourists are not allowed, and keep your distance so the birds are not disturbed. Binoculars make the difference at the pools, and the light is best in the early morning and late afternoon, when the water looks pinker and the heat is lower. There is little shade and no facilities, so carry water and sun protection.
Making it a loop
Combine the salt pans with Pink Beach for a swim and a view of the flamingos, then continue to the lighthouse and the east side for Lac Bay. The route works well after breakfast and before lunch at Sorobon, and it is an easy self-drive with a rental car. Families, photographers, history lovers and bird enthusiasts all find something here, and it costs nothing apart from fuel and whatever you spend at a roadside stop. Treat the huts and the reserve with respect and take only photographs.
What to expect
The experience
A self-drive stop along public roads past salt mounds, pink pools, old slave huts and flamingos, with no entry to the reserve itself.
Best time
Early morning or late afternoon for softer light and cooler temperatures.
How long
One to three hours depending on how many stops and how long you watch the birds.
Tips
Bring binoculars, water and sun protection, stay on the road and never enter the flamingo reserve.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Photographers, history lovers and bird watchers.
- Families
- Easy and free; children enjoy the huge salt mounds and the pink water.
- Couples
- A scenic loop that pairs naturally with a swim at Pink Beach.
- Pair with
- Donkey Sanctuary, Lac Bay or Willemstoren Lighthouse.
- Time needed
- Allow one to three hours.
Good questions
Can I walk into the flamingo reserve?+
No. The Tourism Corporation says entry to the reserve is prohibited to protect the birds, but you can watch them from the road or from nearby Pink Beach.
How many flamingos are there?+
The Pekelmeer sanctuary is described as home to over ten thousand flamingos and as one of only four areas in the world where they breed. Numbers vary through the year.
What are the slave huts?+
They date to 1850 and were camping facilities for enslaved workers in the salt ponds. The workers walked about seven hours to Rincon each Friday to spend the weekend with their families.
Why are the obelisks colored?+
Four obelisks helped guide ships in to load salt, and they were painted red, white, blue and orange, the colors of the Dutch flag. They stand as markers along the shore.
Is there an entry fee?+
The Tourism Corporation page gives no site-specific fee or hours, and the stop is along public roads. Check current conditions locally, since access can change.
