Brasov sits at a crossroads of Romanian, Saxon and Hungarian traditions, and the food shows it. Hearty soups, grilled meats and pastries sit alongside dishes with Central European roots, and the mountains add rustic cheeses, smoked meats and wild mushrooms. Here is how to eat well without a guidebook full of restaurant names.
Start with the classics
Sarmale, cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat and rice, are a national dish, usually served with polenta known as mamaliga and a spoon of sour cream. Ciorba, a sour soup, comes in many forms, from a meatball version to a tripe version that locals swear by as a hangover cure. Mici, small grilled sausage-shaped rolls of seasoned minced meat, are a street-food favourite and are served with mustard and bread. Look for them at grill houses and market stalls, and expect them to be simple and filling.
Try something sweet
Papanasi are fried or boiled cheese doughnuts served with sour cream and jam, and they are the most popular dessert in Romania. Cozonac is a sweet bread filled with walnuts or cocoa, and chimney cake, a spiral of sweet dough baked on a spit and rolled in sugar and cinnamon, is sold in the squares and makes a good snack while you walk. Small bakeries sell filled pastries, and a coffee and a cake is an easy way to fill a break between sights.
Taste the Saxon side
The Saxon heritage of Brasov appears in some menus as schnitzels, dumplings, pickled vegetables and stews, and in the architecture of the old taverns around Council Square. If you want a traditional meal in a historic setting, look for restaurants in old cellars and courtyards, where menus often mix Romanian and Central European dishes. Many places on the square are pleasant but a little pricier, so walk a street or two away for lower prices and a more local feel.
Drink local
Tuica is a plum brandy, usually served as an aperitif, and palinca is a stronger double-distilled spirit, made from plums or other fruit. Sip them slowly and expect a warm glow. Romania also produces good wines, and white varieties such as Feteasca Alba and Tamaioasa, as well as red Feteasca Neagra, are worth trying. Craft beer bars have appeared in the old town, and a local beer in a courtyard is a pleasant end to a day of walking. Coffee culture is strong, with cafes on every street, and hot chocolate is a good reward after a cold hike.
Mountain food
On day trips to Bran, Poiana Brasov or Piatra Craiului, look for guesthouses and chalets that serve home-cooked food. Typical dishes include grilled trout, polenta with cheese and smoked meat, hearty bean soups and stews. Portions are generous, and a meal after a morning on the trail is one of the pleasures of the region. Cheese and cured meats from local farms are sold at roadside stalls and markets and make good picnic supplies.
Practical tips
Lunch menus are often good value, and many places offer a fixed menu with soup, a main and a dessert. Service is usually not included in the bill, so a tip of around ten percent is customary if you are happy. Book ahead on weekends and in peak seasons, and check opening times, since some places close between lunch and dinner. If you have dietary needs, ask for vegetarian options, as many restaurants offer them, though traditional dishes are often meat-based. A guided food walk is a good way to sample several dishes in one afternoon and learn the stories behind them.
Where to stay with breakfast in mind
If a good breakfast matters to you, Hotel Gott and Hotel Bella Muzica both include a buffet in the rate, and Casa Wagner is known for its breakfast too. Many other hotels charge extra, so compare rates before you book.
A simple three-day eating plan
On the first day, have a long lunch on or near Council Square and try a bowl of ciorba with fresh bread. On the second day, eat a village lunch near the castles, with grilled meat or trout and a plate of local cheese, and finish with a chimney cake on the way back. On the third day, try papanasi after a mountain walk and an evening glass of Romanian wine. That mix covers the classics, the mountain table and the sweet side of the cuisine without any need for a long restaurant list, and it leaves room to follow your own taste.
