Brighton Beach and Seafront

Brighton's beach is the reason the town exists as a resort, and it is still the heart of the city. Sea bathing became fashionable here in the eighteenth century, when doctors recommended the cold water for every ailment, and the Prince of Wales followed the fashion and built his palace nearby. Today the shore is a long arc of grey pebbles rather than sand, backed by a double-decker promenade, Victorian railings and rows of arches that hold cafes, bars, galleries and small shops. The beach is free and open to everyone, and it changes character along its length. Near the Palace Pier it is lively and crowded, with deckchairs, ice cream and fish and chips. Towards the west the mood softens, and past the old West Pier skeleton the seafront runs on towards Hove with wider lawns and quieter stretches. To the east, Madeira Drive and the Marina direction are more open and sporty. The water is bracing even in summer, and a small band of year-round sea swimmers makes a point of dipping in whatever the weather.

There is no ticket and no timetable, which is the great pleasure of the seafront. Walk down to the water from the Lanes or the Royal Pavilion, turn whichever way takes your fancy and let the day unfold. Many visitors simply stroll between the Palace Pier and the i360, which is a flat walk of around fifteen minutes, then carry on in either direction.

The Lower Promenade is where most of the activity happens, with beach bars, volleyball courts, street performers and pop-up stalls in the warmer months. Some of the arches are used by artists and makers, so it is worth ducking inside any open door.

Practical advice makes the visit easier. The pebbles are hard on bare feet and slow to walk on, so bring sandals or beach shoes and a mat or folding chair if you plan to sit for long. Deckchairs and sun loungers can usually be hired in season. Swimming is possible but the sea can be cold and the currents are real, so only swim where lifeguards are on duty and never alone.

Gulls are bold and quick, and they will take chips straight from your hand, so eat with your back to a wall. There are public toilets along the front, and cafes at regular intervals, though queues build on warm weekends.

The seafront looks different at every hour. Early morning is quiet and golden, with joggers, dog walkers and swimmers. Midday in summer is full of families and day trippers. Evening brings the lights on the pier, groups gathering at the beach bars and a good sunset over the water, especially from the western end near the i360. In winter, big waves crash onto the shingle and the promenade becomes a place for brisk walks, hot drinks and dramatic photographs.

Wrap up well, because the wind off the Channel can be sharp even when the sun is out. A short stretch of the front is set aside as a clothing-optional beach, which is clearly signed east of the Palace Pier, so you will know if you are heading that way.

The seafront links nearly every other sight in the city, which makes it a natural spine for a day. Pair it with the Palace Pier and SEA LIFE Brighton at the eastern end, the Fishing Museum in the arches, and the i360 and Hove Lawns at the western end. Step-free access is good along the promenade, though getting down onto the pebbles themselves is not possible for wheelchairs without special matting, so ask the tourism board about access if that matters to you.