Great Harbour and the Bubbly Pool

Great Harbour is the heart of Jost Van Dyke, a crescent of sand and a handful of colorful buildings on a calm harbor that is also the island's ferry and customs point. This is where you find Foxy's, the beach bar that made the island famous, along with small restaurants, a bakery, craft stalls and shaded tables on the sand. The mood is slower and more local than at White Bay, with fishermen's boats at the shore and yachts at anchor. Visitors often walk the beach, swim in the calm water and settle into a long lunch. If conditions are right, a short trip across the island brings you to the Bubbly Pool, a natural rock pool where waves surge in and make the water fizz like a jacuzzi.

The Bubbly Pool lies on the island's rocky north shore, a short taxi ride or a longer walk from Great Harbour. It works only when there is a swell from the north, usually in winter, and on calm days it is just a quiet pool. When the waves run, the surge pushes water through a gap in the rocks, creating a gentle fizzing flow.

Always check conditions with a local before you get in, because large swells can be dangerous and the rocks are slippery. Go with a guide or a taxi driver who knows the shore, and never enter the pool in rough weather.

Back in Great Harbour, the best plan is to arrive by ferry or on a day boat from Tortola, step onto the sand and let the day unfold. Foxy's is the center of the scene, with live music on many evenings, a bar that has been running for decades and a famous New Year's Eve party that draws boats from across the Caribbean.

If you prefer something quieter, there are other beach restaurants along the water and a small community feel. Try the grilled fish or lobster in season, and a rum punch if you are not sailing.

Getting here is part of the fun. Public ferries link Tortola's West End with Jost Van Dyke, and they run on a published schedule, which you can find through the BVI Tourist Board. Day-trip operators from St Thomas and Tortola also stop here. Remember to bring ID, because Great Harbour is the entry point for customs on the island. Carry a little cash for taxis and small purchases. A taxi tour around the island, which usually includes White Bay and the Bubbly Pool, is a flexible option for a few hours ashore.

If you want to combine the sights, spend the morning at White Bay for the Soggy Dollar and the afternoon at Great Harbour, then catch the late ferry or sail back. Or stay overnight and enjoy the quiet of the island after the day boats leave. A couple of small guesthouses and villas offer simple rooms, and staying lets you see Great Harbour at dusk when the lights come on across the water. Pack insect repellent, a hat and plenty of water, and respect the island's relaxed pace.