Braemar Castle

Braemar Castle stands on a rise just north of the village, a compact fortified house with a distinctive star-shaped curtain wall and round corner towers. It was built in 1628 by the Earl of Mar, and its story reflects the turbulent history of the Highlands. In 1689 it was burned during the Jacobite campaigns, and after the 1745 rising it was leased by the Farquharsons of Invercauld to the government as a garrison to control the Highlands, one of several military outposts that included Ruthven Barracks. Today the castle is run by a community charity on behalf of the village, and it is open to visitors seasonally. Inside you can explore rooms furnished for different periods, climb stairs to the roof, and see the soldiers' graffiti and the dungeon, with guides and exhibitions that tell the stories of the families and soldiers who lived here. The mood is intimate rather than grand, and a visit is as much about meeting the local volunteers as seeing the castle.

The history rewards a short pause. After the 1745 rising, Hanoverian troops garrisoned the castle, and the star-shaped wall was added to improve its defence. The soldiers left their mark, and some of their graffiti survives. In the nineteenth century the Farquharsons used it again as a family home, and the contents reflect that period of country-house life. Visitors can see portraits, furniture, a laird's study and servants' rooms, with the exhibitions changing from year to year, so repeat visitors often find something new.

Visiting is simple. The castle opens seasonally, usually from spring to autumn, and hours vary, so check before you travel. Allow about an hour for a full visit, more if you join a guided tour or enjoy the grounds. Stairs are narrow and steep in places, so access is limited for people with reduced mobility, and the operators can advise on what is possible. Dogs are generally restricted indoors but may be welcome in the grounds.

The village of Braemar is a good reason to extend the stay. It lies at an altitude that makes it one of the coldest places in Britain in winter, and it is surrounded by the Cairngorm hills, forest and the River Clunie. Braemar is world famous for the Braemar Gathering, a Highland games event usually held in early September that has been attended by the Royal Family for generations, with caber tossing, hill races and pipe bands. If your trip falls in that window, book accommodation and tickets early, because the village fills quickly.

Volunteers and guides are a highlight, so ask them about the graffiti, the soldiers' lives and the family portraits. The castle shop sells local crafts and books, and the small cafe is a handy stop. If you visit in autumn, the surrounding trees and hills are especially beautiful, and the village is a short walk away for lunch.