Two Harbors Guide

Most visitors to Catalina see only Avalon, which is a pity, because the island's other community is a very different place. Two Harbors sits on a narrow isthmus at the western end of the island, with a sheltered bay on each side and a handful of buildings clustered around a small waterfront. It has no big hotels and few services, but it offers hiking, snorkeling, kayaking and a sense of remoteness that is hard to find so close to Los Angeles.The setting. The isthmus is only a short walk across, which is why the two bays, Isthmus Cove and Cat Harbor, are so close together. The village has a general store, a beach bar and restaurant, a dive and recreation center and a historic lodge on the bluff. Boaters moor in the coves in summer, and the harbor fills with sails. In the evening the lights come on across the water, and the sky is dark enough to see the Milky Way.Getting there. The Catalina Express runs to Two Harbors from some mainland ports on a limited, often seasonal schedule, and a shuttle connects Avalon and Two Harbors across the island on certain days. Guided jet ski trips from Long Beach cross the channel for confident riders. Because transport is limited, check schedules before you book lodging, and allow a buffer for weather. Hikers can also arrive on foot along the Trans-Catalina Trail from Avalon.Where to stay. Banning House Lodge on the bluff is the main hotel option, a historic building with views over Isthmus Cove. Campgrounds, cabins and tent sites offer more rustic options, including the beach camp at Parsons Landing for hikers. Book early in summer and on holiday weekends. Day visitors can come and go on the ferry schedule, though an overnight stay is by far the best way to enjoy the place.On the water. Snorkeling at Isthmus Cove and the nearby rocks reveals garibaldi, kelp bass and other reef fish, and calm days are ideal for kayaks and paddleboards. The recreation center rents gear and runs lessons and guided activities, and certified divers can arrange shore dives. Water is coolest in winter and spring and warmest in late summer. A wetsuit extends the swimming season, and many visitors rent one.On foot. Hiking is the other draw. The Parsons Landing route heads along the coast to a remote beach, a long day or an overnight. Shorter walks climb to viewpoints above the village, with sunset views over both bays. Sections of the Trans-Catalina Trail pass nearby, and bison and foxes are common companions. Carry water, wear sun protection and check conditions with the Conservancy before you head into the backcountry.Eating and drinking. The village bar is a local institution, known for its casual atmosphere and its buffalo milk cocktail, and the menu runs to burgers, fish and simple dishes. Supplies arrive by boat, so options are limited and hours shorter in the off season. Bring snacks and water for hikes, and consider packing a few groceries if you are camping.Tours from Two Harbors. Backcountry excursions leave from the village, including the long journey to Island's End and Frog Rock. These tours cover rough roads and wild landscapes, and they are among the best ways to see the western half of the island. Book ahead, bring layers and plan on a bumpy ride.A sample weekend. Arrive on a Friday afternoon by ferry or shuttle, settle into the lodge or your campsite, and walk to the village for a sunset drink. On Saturday, snorkel in the morning, hike to a viewpoint in the afternoon, and stay up for the stars. On Sunday, take a backcountry tour or a short kayak before the return crossing. It is a modest agenda, and that is the point: the pleasure of Two Harbors lies in unhurried time, simple food and the sound of water.Combining Two Harbors with Avalon. The ideal island trip includes both. Spend a night or two in Avalon to enjoy the Casino, the restaurants and the beach, then cross the island to Two Harbors for quiet, hiking and stargazing. The contrast is sharp and satisfying, and it reveals how varied Catalina is. Whichever you choose, treat Two Harbors as a place to slow down.