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Charlevoix with Kids

Charlevoix guide

Charlevoix with Kids

A family guide to Charlevoix, Quebec: free ferries, whale watching, farm visits, sculpture gardens, easy trails and winter fun, with tips on where to stay.

Charlevoix is a good family destination, with free ferries, wildlife, farms and gentle outdoor activities, but the distances are long and many sights are seasonal. This guide picks what works for children and shows how to build a day around it.

Boats first

Children love the water, and Charlevoix offers several easy ways onto it. The Tadoussac ferry is free and runs all year, so a short crossing with an outdoor deck is a treat and a chance of whales. The Isle-aux-Coudres ferry from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive is also free, and the island loop is flat enough for children on bicycles. A whale-watching cruise is the highlight in season: choose the larger boat for shelter and steadiness, since the Zodiac is faster and wetter.

Animals and farms

The Pointe-Noire lookout is free for youth aged 17 and under, and has guides, picnic tables and red chairs, though waiting for belugas takes patience, so bring snacks. The Tadoussac shoreline garden has five life-sized beluga sculptures and is free and open at all times. On the gourmet itinerary, Alpagas Charlevoix has an alpaca farm and an educational trail, and the saffron farm offers fruit picking in season. The cheese dairy in Baie-Saint-Paul is a short, tasty visit.

Walks and play

The Tadoussac Hébertisme course is about 2 kilometres through the forest with 23 challenges, which turns a walk into a game. The dunes make a good place to run, though the slopes are fragile, so stay on the paths. In Baie-Saint-Paul, the Place du Citoyen sculptures and the bridge over the river are easy stops. The Hautes-Gorges riverboat cruise is free for children aged 0 to 17, and its shuttle and boat make a satisfying outing for older children.

Winter fun

Le Massif offers beginner terrain on about a fifth of the mountain and free skiing for the youngest children, and Mont Grand-Fonds has a smaller scale that suits learners, plus snowshoe trails. Skating and snowshoeing in the Hautes-Gorges park are easy for families, and Grands-Jardins has snowshoe loops and ski hok, a short wide ski that beginners find easy. Dress children in layers and pack hand warmers.

Rainy days

The Musée de Charlevoix admits children aged six and under free, with a family rate for others. The Musée maritime has real schooners and a boatyard, and the paper mill lets children see sheets being made. The cheese dairy and the cheese tastings fill an hour, and the Casino de Charlevoix is not suitable, since guests must be 18 or older.

Where to stay

The Petit Manoir du Casino has an indoor family pool and kitchenette suites, which makes it the easiest family base in La Malbaie. Le Germain Charlevoix has family rooms with bunk beds and free parking, and La Pinsonnière offers apartments with kitchens and a seasonal pool. Auberge Cap-aux-Corbeaux does not allow children, so skip it.

Practical tips

Keep drives short, with a stop every hour. Pack snacks, since services are thin on the coast road. Book whale cruises for the morning, when children are fresher and the water is often calmer. Carry binoculars, a spare layer and a plan B for wet weather. Check seasonal hours before you drive to any attraction.

Sample family day

Start with a morning crossing on the Tadoussac ferry, walk the shoreline garden and the beluga sculptures, picnic near the dunes and finish with the Hébertisme course before the drive back. In winter, swap the picnic for a hot lunch in the village and the course for a snowshoe loop. A second family day could combine the cheese dairy, a farm stop and a gentle walk in Baie-Saint-Paul.

Safety and comfort

The river and the cliffs deserve respect. Keep children close on ferries, docks and lookouts, use life jackets on boats and check tide tables before beach walks near Tadoussac, since the tidal range can exceed four metres. Pack sunscreen in summer, since the water adds glare, and a hat and gloves in every season. Carry a first-aid kit and know where the nearest hospital is, since distances between towns are long.

Costs and planning

Many of the best family experiences are free or cheap: the ferries, the lookouts, the sculpture garden, the dunes and the villages. The paid highlights are the whale cruise, Le Massif and the museums, so budget for them and choose one or two rather than all. Book accommodation with kitchens or a breakfast included to keep daily costs down.

Mentioned in this guide

Do

The Free Tadoussac to Baie-Sainte-Catherine Ferry

A free ferry run by the Société des traversiers du Québec across the mouth of the Saguenay Fjord, open year round, with views of the marine park and a chance of whales from the deck.

Isle-aux-CoudresDo

Isle-aux-Coudres

A river island reached by a free ferry from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, with a 24 kilometre loop road and bike path, a cidery, a bakery and a brewery. Many shops and hotels keep seasonal hours, so check before you cross.

Do

Whale Watching from Tadoussac and Baie-Sainte-Catherine

A two to three hour cruise or Zodiac trip into the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, leaving from Tadoussac or from Baie-Sainte-Catherine on the Charlevoix side. The season runs from late spring to early autumn.

Do

Tadoussac Dunes and Bird Observatory

Two huge sand terraces left by glacial meltwater about 10,000 years ago, a short drive from Tadoussac village, plus Quebec's first bird observatory on the dune plateau and a forest fitness trail. Free to walk.

Do

Pointe-Noire Interpretation and Observation Centre

A Parks Canada shore lookout at Baie-Sainte-Catherine for watching belugas and minke whales from land, about 1 kilometre before the Tadoussac ferry dock. Hours vary by season, so check Parks Canada first.

Stay

Hotel et Pavillons Le Petit Manoir du Casino

A mid-range hotel and pavilion complex with spas, pools and a river-view restaurant, just steps from the Casino de Charlevoix in La Malbaie. It has winter services, including snowmobile parking.

Stay

Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel and Spa

A 145-room hotel and Nordic spa at 50 rue de la Ferme in Baie-Saint-Paul, built as a cluster of pavilions with two restaurants and free parking. It is the stylish base for Le Massif and the art trail.

Stay

La Pinsonnière

A river-view stay in Cap-à-l'Aigle, the prettiest village on the La Malbaie shore, with studios and apartments that have kitchens, two hot springs, a seasonal pool and free parking.