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Three Days in Charlevoix

Charlevoix guide

Three Days in Charlevoix

A three-day Charlevoix itinerary: art and cheese in Baie-Saint-Paul, the river villages and La Malbaie, then the fjord mouth at Tadoussac, with seasonal swaps for winter.

Three days is enough to follow the whole Charlevoix coast from west to east without rushing: art and food in Baie-Saint-Paul, river villages and La Malbaie in the middle, and the fjord mouth at Tadoussac at the end. The plan below assumes a car, a night in Baie-Saint-Paul and a night in La Malbaie, and it gives winter swaps wherever a stop is seasonal.

Day one: Baie-Saint-Paul

Start on the art trail, which Tourisme Charlevoix describes as eight stops and about 2.9 kilometres, from the Carrefour culturel to the Musée d'art contemporain and the galleries of rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste. Allow a morning for it. At lunch, taste local cheese at the Laiterie Charlevoix cheese economuseum on the main boulevard, then spend the afternoon on one of three choices: the Charlevoix gourmet tour for a few producers, Le Massif de Charlevoix in winter, or the Grands-Jardins park for a hike to the crater view in summer. Dine on rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste and sleep at Le Germain Charlevoix, Hotel Baie-Saint-Paul or one of the smaller inns.

Day two: the river villages and La Malbaie

Drive east along the shore. Stop at Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive for the maritime museum and the handmade-paper mill, both seasonal, and consider the free ferry to Isle-aux-Coudres if you have time for a loop of the island. Continue through Saint-Irénée, where the Domaine Forget has a free sculpture garden and, in summer, concerts. Reach La Malbaie for the afternoon: the Musée de Charlevoix in Pointe-au-Pic is an easy indoor hour, and the Casino de Charlevoix, next to the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, is the evening option for adults. If you prefer the outdoors, replace the casino with a walk in the grounds and dinner in Pointe-au-Pic.

Day three: the fjord mouth

Drive the coast road from La Malbaie toward Baie-Sainte-Catherine, about 88 kilometres by Tourisme Charlevoix's measure. Pick two or three stops: Cap-à-l'Aigle for the village and gardens, Port-au-Persil for the cidery and pottery, Baie-des-Rochers for a picnic. In season, join a whale-watching cruise from Baie-Sainte-Catherine or Tadoussac. Outside the cruise season, stand at the Pointe-Noire lookout, which is run by Parks Canada and keeps seasonal hours, or ride the free ferry to Tadoussac and walk its shoreline garden and dunes. Return to La Malbaie or continue to the Saguenay or the Côte-Nord.

Winter swaps

In winter, replace the whale cruise with a morning at Mont Grand-Fonds or in the Hautes-Gorges park for skating, snowshoeing or skiing. Replace the gourmet tour with the cheese dairy and a long lunch, and use Le Massif on day one if you ski. The museum, the casino, the cheese dairy and the Domaine Forget remain open, and the ferry still runs, so a winter version is a good one if you plan around daylight.

Driving times

Baie-Saint-Paul to La Malbaie is about an hour without stops, and La Malbaie to Baie-Sainte-Catherine about an hour more, so the plan is built around short drives and long stops. Fill the tank in La Malbaie before day three and carry water and snacks, since services thin out toward the east.

If you have a fourth day

Add the Hautes-Gorges riverboat cruise in summer, or a full day in Tadoussac with the marine mammal centre, the dunes and a longer cruise. If you have only two days, combine day one and day two, and finish at the Pointe-Noire lookout or the museum in La Malbaie.

Booking tips

Reserve the whale cruise, the Hautes-Gorges cruise and any concert before you travel, buy Le Massif tickets ahead of time and book the two nights early for summer weekends. Everything else can be decided on the day, which is part of the pleasure of a coast drive.

Pacing and flexibility

The plan is built so that each day has one anchor and two or three optional stops, and you can drop any of them without losing the shape of the trip. If the weather is poor, swap the outdoor stops for the museum, the cheese dairy and the casino. If the day is clear, lengthen the viewpoints and skip an indoor visit. Charlevoix rewards flexibility, and the drive itself is a sight, so leave room for a stop when a view opens or a roadside stand appears.

Who this plan suits

It works for couples, friends and families with children old enough to enjoy a day of short drives. Families with young children may prefer to cut day two to a single village and spend longer on the ferry and the beach. Visitors who love hiking can swap day one for a long walk in the Grands-Jardins park, and those who care mainly about food can follow the gourmet itinerary on the first two days.

Mentioned in this guide

Do

Baie-Saint-Paul Art Trail and Galleries

A walking trail through Charlevoix's art town, from the Musée d'art contemporain to the galleries of rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste and the square where Cirque du Soleil began. Free to walk and open to visit in every season, though winter gallery hours vary.

Do

Laiterie Charlevoix Cheese Economuseum, Baie-Saint-Paul

A working dairy and cheese economuseum at 1167 boulevard Monseigneur-De Laval in Baie-Saint-Paul, where visitors can see the stages of cheese making and taste local cheeses. Open all year.

Do

Musée de Charlevoix, Pointe-au-Pic

A regional museum in a lighthouse-like building at 10 chemin du Havre in Pointe-au-Pic, devoted to the art, popular traditions and history of Charlevoix. Open year round, closed for a stretch around the holidays.

Do

The Coast Road from La Malbaie to Baie-Sainte-Catherine

An 88 kilometre drive from La Malbaie past Cap-à-l'Aigle, Port-au-Persil and Saint-Siméon to the whale-watching village of Baie-Sainte-Catherine. Several stops are seasonal, so expect fewer open doors outside summer.

Do

Whale Watching from Tadoussac and Baie-Sainte-Catherine

A two to three hour cruise or Zodiac trip into the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, leaving from Tadoussac or from Baie-Sainte-Catherine on the Charlevoix side. The season runs from late spring to early autumn.

Stay

Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel and Spa

A 145-room hotel and Nordic spa at 50 rue de la Ferme in Baie-Saint-Paul, built as a cluster of pavilions with two restaurants and free parking. It is the stylish base for Le Massif and the art trail.

Fairmont Le Manoir RichelieuStay

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

The grand resort hotel of La Malbaie, right next door to the Casino de Charlevoix, with a spa, golf, pools and several places to eat. Winter packages are a regular feature, so it is a real option outside summer.

Stay

Hotel et Pavillons Le Petit Manoir du Casino

A mid-range hotel and pavilion complex with spas, pools and a river-view restaurant, just steps from the Casino de Charlevoix in La Malbaie. It has winter services, including snowmobile parking.