The Unterlinden Museum occupies a thirteenth-century Dominican convent on the Place Unterlinden, with a modern extension that links the old cloister to a former municipal bath house across the square. Its star is the Isenheim Altarpiece, painted by Matthias Grünewald with sculpture by Nikolaus of Haguenau, made for the hospital monastery of Issenheim in the early sixteenth century. The altarpiece is a polyptych with moving wings, so that different scenes appear as it opens and closes: the harrowing Crucifixion, an Annunciation and a radiant Resurrection, with the carved saints behind. It was made for patients suffering from terrible skin diseases, and the suffering Christ in the central panel was intended to console them. Beyond the altarpiece the museum is surprisingly broad. There are medieval and Renaissance works, Alsatian decorative arts and furniture, archaeological finds from the region, and a modern and contemporary collection that includes works by Picasso. The museum's two buildings are connected underground, so you move from cloister quiet to white galleries in a few steps. Allow at least two hours, and go early on a weekend to see the altarpiece without a crowd.
What to look at
Begin in the former chapel, where the altarpiece stands, and take your time. The first view shows the Crucifixion, with the body of Christ marked by the sores that connected him to the monastery's patients, flanked by Saint Anthony and other saints. When the outer wings are opened, the Annunciation and the Resurrection appear in bright colour, and further panels show the temptation of Saint Anthony.
Hang back for a minute to see the whole structure, then step in close to study the extraordinary detail, from the gleaming glass of a chalice to the tormented creatures in the Saint Anthony panel. Audio guides are available and worth taking for this room.
Beyond the altarpiece
The cloister, the cellars with archaeological finds, the rooms of Rhenish medieval art and the collection of modern works give variety. The extension, designed by Swiss architects Herzog and de Meuron, opened in 2015 and doubled the museum's space. The museum is closed on Tuesdays and on a handful of public holidays, so check before you plan around it. Last entry is a little before closing, and the museum is on level ground close to Petite Venise.
Planning
A ticket costs a modest amount, with reduced rates for young people and free entry for children under twelve. Combined tickets with Haut-Koenigsbourg or the Choco Story chocolate museum are sold, which suit two-night stays. Visit in the morning, then walk to Petite Venise for lunch. In December the town fills with visitors for the Christmas markets, so weekends at the museum can be busier.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit through a medieval convent and a modern extension, with the Isenheim Altarpiece in the former chapel and an audio guide available.
Best time
Early morning or the last two hours before closing; weekends and school holidays are busiest around the altarpiece.
How long
About two hours; art lovers can spend half a day.
Tips
Go straight to the altarpiece first, take the audio guide for that room, and remember the museum is closed on Tuesdays.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone interested in art or medieval history, and anyone who wants a rainy-day plan.
- Families
- Older children can enjoy the altarpiece's drama; younger ones may prefer the Toy Museum or the chocolate museum.
- Couples
- A quiet morning with the altarpiece, then lunch near the canals.
- Pair with
- Petite Venise, Choco Story and the Pfister House, all within a ten-minute walk.
- Time needed
- Two hours, plus time for the cloister café.
Good questions
What is the Isenheim Altarpiece?+
It is an early sixteenth-century polyptych painted by Matthias Grünewald with carved figures by Nikolaus of Haguenau, made for a hospital monastery at Issenheim. Its wings open and close to reveal different scenes, including a famous Crucifixion.
What day is the Unterlinden Museum closed?+
It is closed on Tuesdays, and on a few public holidays such as 1 January and 25 December. Check the museum before travelling around a holiday.
How long should I spend there?+
Allow about two hours for the altarpiece and the main galleries. Keen visitors can add the archaeology rooms and the modern collection.
Is an audio guide worth it?+
Yes, particularly for the altarpiece room, where the panels carry a lot of symbolism. Audio guides are available at the museum for a small extra charge.
Can I combine it with other attractions?+
Combined tickets exist with the Haut-Koenigsbourg castle and with the Choco Story museum. They suit visitors planning both on the same stay.
