Middleham Falls

Middleham Falls is the walker's waterfall. Unlike Trafalgar Falls, which you can see from a short viewing platform, this one has to be earned on foot. The trail starts near the village of Laudat and heads down through mature rainforest in Morne Trois Pitons National Park, passing giant gommier and chatanier trees, tree ferns, bromeliads and, if you are quiet, forest birds such as the mountain whistler and the broad-winged hawk. The route is usually described as a walk of around an hour or a little more each way, with steps and roots in the dry sections and plenty of mud after rain. At the end the forest opens onto a tall cascade that drops from a rocky lip into a deep pool, one of the highest single falls on the island. The half-day tour linked here pairs the walk with a swim at Titou Gorge, which makes a very good combination because the gorge is nearby and the cold water is welcome after the climb back up.

The walk is moderate rather than extreme, but it should not be underestimated. The path descends on the way in and climbs on the way out, so the return leg is the tiring one. After rain, which is frequent in the interior, the steps become slick and some stretches turn into a stream. Shoes with real grip are worth far more than good looks here, and a light waterproof layer is sensible in any season.

Many visitors go with a guide, who points out medicinal plants, bird calls and the history of the forest, and who can tell you whether the river crossing at the end is safe. If the water is high or the pool looks discoloured, listen to the advice and simply admire the falls from the bank.

Swimming is possible in the pool at the base in normal conditions, and the water is bracingly cold because it comes straight off the mountain. The spray alone is refreshing in the humid heat of the valley. Bring a towel, a dry change of clothes in a waterproof bag and a little patience for the sound of the falls, which is louder than you expect.

Because the trailhead sits within the national park system, a site pass or small fee is normally part of the visit, and your tour operator will tell you whether it is included. The amounts change from time to time, so confirm before you go.

The best time to come is the drier stretch from about December to April, when the trail is firmer and the pool is clearer, although the falls themselves run well in every season. Start in the morning, since afternoon showers are common and the path is much more pleasant in daylight with a dry sky. The walk is not a good choice for small children, anyone with knee or ankle trouble or those who dislike muddy steps.

If that describes your group, Trafalgar Falls and Emerald Pool are gentler ways to see a Dominican waterfall. For everyone else, Middleham is the quietest and most atmospheric of the big falls, often with only a handful of other people at the bottom, and it sits a short drive from the hot springs of Wotten Waven, which make a fine reward for tired legs later in the day.