Palais Amani

Palais Amani is a restored historic house in the heart of Fes el-Bali, entered through a quiet lane and opening into a world of tiled courtyards, carved plaster and greenery. It is both a guesthouse and a cooking school, which means the kitchen and the food are a point of pride. The atmosphere is relaxed and personal, with attentive staff and a sense of being a guest in a very beautiful home. Mid to upper-range pricing makes it one of the best-value stays for travellers who want character without a palace price tag.

Location and getting around: the palace-riad stands within the medina walls, so you step out into the lanes on foot. Cars cannot reach it, and the staff will guide you from the nearest drop-off point. From here you can walk to many sights, including the madrasas and the souks, and the Chouara tannery is within a reasonable walk with a guide. Evening strolls are atmospheric, though the lanes are dark and confusing, so ask staff for directions before heading out.

Rooms and atmosphere: rooms are individually decorated with traditional furniture, zellige, carved wood and soft lighting, and open onto courtyards or the garden. The mood is calm and the surrounding walls cut out most noise. Because the building is old, some rooms are small and stairs are steep, so mention any mobility needs when booking. The cooking school is a feature, and a class here is a natural highlight of your stay.

Who it suits and good to know: it suits couples, solo travellers and food lovers, and it is a good base for a first visit to Fes. Breakfast is typically served in the courtyard or garden and is a pleasant start to the day. The welcome includes advice on guides, restaurants and day trips, and staff can book the cooking class, a hammam or a day excursion for you. Bring a small torch for evening walks, and travel light because luggage is carried in by porter. Rates change with the season, with spring and autumn the busiest. Check the current room types and policies before you book.