Bab Bou Jeloud, often called the Blue Gate, is the grand ceremonial entrance to the old medina and the place where most visitors take their first steps into Fes. It is a tall, horseshoe-arched gateway covered in tiled mosaics. The face turned toward the new town is blue, the traditional colour of Fes, while the side facing the medina is green, the colour of Islam. The gate as seen today dates to the early twentieth century, built in a Moorish style that echoes older gates. Beyond it, the square fills at all hours with taxis, mule carts, vendors and cafes, and the two main medina lanes, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Sghira, begin just inside. In the evening the area comes alive as families, students and tourists gather for juice, grilled meat and tea. It is free to see and impossible to miss.
The gate is best appreciated twice, once by day and once after dark. In daylight, the glazed tilework and the carved arch are easiest to study from the terrace of one of the cafes that overlook the square, and the green face inside the gate is a delight against the busy lanes. After sunset, the gate is lit and the square has a different character, with food stalls and the scent of grilled skewers. Nearby you will find snail soup sellers, orange juice pressers and small restaurants serving tagine, and the rooftop terraces make good places to watch the activity below.
Because Bab Bou Jeloud is the main tourist entrance, it is also where touts gather. Politely decline offers of help finding hotels or tours, and book a licensed guide in advance if you want company. If you are staying inside the medina, ask your riad to send a porter to meet you at the gate, since taxis cannot go farther and luggage must be carried through the lanes. Opening times are not an issue here, because it is a street entrance, but the cafes and restaurants keep their own hours. The area is easy to reach by petit taxi from the new town and is an ideal starting point for a walking tour. Take care with bags in the evening crowds.
What to expect
The experience
A free stroll around the gate and its square, with cafes, street food and the start of the two main medina lanes.
Best time
Late afternoon into the evening, when the gate is lit and the square is lively.
How long
Half an hour to an hour, longer if you stay for a meal.
Tips
Watch your bags in the crowds, decline unofficial guides politely and arrange for a porter if you have luggage.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors wanting a classic photo and a feel for medina life.
- Families
- Lively and colourful, but crowded, so hold hands near the mule carts.
- Couples
- Have mint tea or fresh juice on a cafe terrace as the gate lights up.
- Pair with
- Bou Inania Madrasa and the Talaa Kebira lane begin right beside the gate.
- Time needed
- A short stop, though many people return in the evening for dinner.
Good questions
Why is Bab Bou Jeloud blue and green?+
Blue is the traditional colour of Fes and green is the colour of Islam. The blue face is outside the medina, and the green face is inside.
Is there an entry fee?+
No, it is a public street gate and square. You only pay for anything you buy at nearby cafes or stalls.
How old is Bab Bou Jeloud?+
The gate you see today dates to the early twentieth century, though it stands on the site of earlier entrances. It was built in the Moorish style.
Is it safe in the evening?+
It is busy and generally fine, with the usual need to watch bags and phones. Stick to the lit, crowded areas at night.
Can taxis reach the gate?+
Yes, taxis can reach the square outside, but cars cannot go into the medina. Porters will carry luggage to riads inside.
