Riad Salam Fes

Riad Salam Fes is a guesthouse in the classic mould: a traditional house arranged around a courtyard, with a handful of rooms and a small team who know their guests by name. For many travellers, this is the heart of a trip to Fes, because staying in a riad brings you closer to how the old city lives, with the quiet interior hiding behind plain walls, and a rooftop terrace for breakfast and tea. A smaller property usually offers personal service, such as help with tours, restaurant bookings, taxis and cooking classes, and a host who can tell you which lanes to avoid at midday. The trade-off is that small riads rarely have the range of facilities of a large hotel, so check what is offered, including air conditioning or heating, hot water, breakfast times and Wi-Fi. Think about location, too. A riad deep in the lanes puts you close to the sights, but requires a walk with luggage, while a property near a gate is easier on arrival. Mid-range riads of this kind appeal to couples, solo travellers and small groups who value atmosphere and conversation over spa-style facilities.

Because riads are intimate, arrival planning matters. Tell the owner your arrival time, and expect to be met at a gate or taxi point by a porter or staff member. Ask for a phone number and a map pin, and keep both handy for the first night. If you arrive after dark, ask whether they can accompany you from the gate. Check whether you can leave luggage on departure day if your train or flight is late.

Meals are one of the real pleasures of a riad. Breakfast is usually served on the terrace or in the courtyard, with bread, jam, eggs and fresh juice, and many riads cook dinner to order. If you want dinner, reserve it in the morning, and tell the cook about allergies. Ask the host for recommendations, and for a licensed guide, which is an excellent way to avoid pressure in the medina. In summer, ask about cooling, as thick walls help, but upper rooms can be warm.

In winter, ask about heating, since old houses can be cold. Spring and autumn are the busiest seasons, so book ahead. A riad like this works well as a base for day trips to Volubilis, Meknes, Chefchaouen and the Middle Atlas, since staff can arrange operators and early breakfasts. Confirm room types, bed configurations and policies for children before you book. Finally, ask the owner for a simple map with the route to the main gate marked, and save the riad's contact details on your phone before you set off for the day.