Two of western Honshu's most striking sights fit into one long day from Fukuoka. Akiyoshido is the largest limestone cave in Japan, a cool, damp world of flowstone terraces, pools and tall columns beneath the Akiyoshidai karst plateau, with a lit walking route through the main chamber. Motonosumi Inari Shrine, in Nagato on the Sea of Japan coast, is famous for its long line of red torii gates that wind down a hillside beside the water, and for the offering box set high on the topmost gate, which visitors try to hit with a coin. Both are in Yamaguchi Prefecture, a few hours by road from Fukuoka, so a guided coach tour is the way most visitors go. It is a good choice for travellers who have already seen the city sights and want varied scenery rather than more shrines and food.
Akiyoshido is cool and damp all year, so bring a light layer even in summer and shoes with good grip, because the path can be wet. The walk through the main cave follows a lit route, with limestone formations named for their shapes, and lasts between forty minutes and an hour.
Visitors who want more can follow longer routes in some sections, though tour schedules usually keep to the main section. Above ground, the karst plateau is a landscape of grass and white rock that resembles a flock of sheep, with lookouts that reward a short walk.
The Motonosumi shrine is a different mood. The path descends past a long run of torii, the red gates framed against blue water on a clear day, and the sea and cliffs are the setting for the walk. The famous coin toss into the offering box takes patience and a steady throw. The route has steps, and wind from the sea can be strong, so dress for it. Photography is best when the sun is high enough to light the gates, and the place can be crowded in the middle of the day.
The day is long, with coach time through the Kanmon Strait crossing and across Yamaguchi, and the pace depends on the operator. Some tours add the Tsunoshima Bridge, a long causeway to a small island with sea-blue water, so check the itinerary. Bring some cash for entry fees and snacks, wear comfortable shoes, and expect to have lunch on the move or at a simple local restaurant. If you only have time for one cave or one coast, this trip is not for you, but if you like variety it is a satisfying combination.
What to expect
The experience
A long guided coach day crossing into Yamaguchi Prefecture, walking through Japan's largest limestone cave and down the line of red torii at the coast.
Best time
Clear days for the coast and torii, any season for the cave, which stays cool and damp all year.
How long
About ten hours, much of it on the road.
Tips
Bring a light layer for the cave, wear grippy shoes, check whether the tour includes the Tsunoshima Bridge and carry some cash.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who like variety, with a cave, a cliffside shrine and coastline in one trip.
- Families
- Good for older children, who often like the cave and the coin-toss game, though the day is long.
- Couples
- Dramatic scenery and photographs, especially at the torii on a clear day.
- Pair with
- Mojiko and Kokura on other days, or a slower evening of ramen back in Fukuoka.
- Time needed
- Allow a full day.
Good questions
How big is Akiyoshido?+
It is the largest limestone cave in Japan, with a lit route through the main chamber that takes between forty minutes and an hour.
What should I wear in the cave?+
Bring a light layer and shoes with good grip, because the cave is cool and damp all year and the path can be wet.
What is special about Motonosumi?+
Its long line of red torii gates winds down a coastal hillside, and visitors try to toss a coin into the offering box on the top gate.
How long is the journey?+
It is a long day of about ten hours, with several hours of coach travel through Yamaguchi Prefecture.
Does the tour include other stops?+
Some departures add the Tsunoshima Bridge or a market, so check the itinerary for your date.
