The highlands of Santa Cruz are a different world from the dry coast. Climb out of Puerto Ayora and the cactus gives way to green farmland, mist and forest, and this is where the island's wild giant tortoises spend much of the year grazing on grass, fruit and ponds. El Chato is the best known of the tortoise areas, and several highland farms and reserves offer similar encounters. You walk marked trails among the tortoises, which can weigh several hundred kilograms and are surprisingly quiet and unbothered by visitors who keep a respectful distance. Many half-day tours add a walk through a lava tunnel, a long tube formed when the outer crust of a lava flow hardened while molten rock drained away inside, leaving a cool, dark passage you can walk through with a torch. Some trips also stop at the Los Gemelos twin craters, collapsed magma chambers ringed by forest. Rubber boots are usually lent at the reserves because the ground can be muddy. It is an easy, memorable morning and a good complement to the beaches and boat days.
What you see depends on the season and where the tortoises are feeding. In the wetter months the animals gather around ponds and lush pastures in the highlands and are easier to find; at other times they may be more spread out, so a guide who knows where they are is valuable.
Trails are short and well marked, and the experience of standing beside a tortoise while it chews, shell as tall as your hip, is the kind of encounter people remember for years. Look closely at the shape of shells and necks, which hint at the saddleback and dome variations that fascinated Darwin.
Planning
A typical outing is a half day by shared or private vehicle, with a guide who includes the reserve, a lava tunnel and sometimes a lookout at the craters and a coffee or sugar-cane stop. Prices for shared outings are low by Galápagos standards, which makes this a good first activity on arrival. Wear closed shoes, bring a light rain jacket and expect cooler, misty weather up high. Torches are sometimes provided for the tunnel, but a phone light works too, and the tunnel floor can be wet and uneven.
Good to know
Keep at least two metres from the tortoises, never touch them and stay on the paths, as they can retract and hiss and are protected animals. Some reserves are on private farmland and charge a small entry fee, which is usually included in a tour.
If you prefer to go independently, taxis and bicycles can reach the highlands, but a guided trip makes it far easier to find animals and to learn about their lives. Combine it with the Darwin Research Station in town to compare the wild animals with the young ones raised there.
What to expect
The experience
A guided half-day road trip into the Santa Cruz highlands to walk among wild giant tortoises and through a lava tunnel.
Best time
Morning or early afternoon; the highlands are cooler and often misty, and tortoises are active in the daytime.
How long
About three to four hours including the drive up from Puerto Ayora.
Tips
Wear closed shoes, bring a light rain jacket, keep at least two metres from the tortoises and use a torch in the tunnel.
Quick picks
- Best for
- The sure-fire way to see giant tortoises in the wild on a short, affordable trip.
- Families
- Excellent for children, with easy trails, boots to borrow and the thrill of the tunnel, though the floor can be slippery.
- Couples
- A relaxed half day in cool green scenery, easy to pair with lunch in the highlands.
- Pair with
- The Darwin Research Station and a late-afternoon harbour-front drink.
- Time needed
- Allow a half day, including the drive and a stop or two.
Good questions
Will I really see giant tortoises?+
Very likely. The highlands of Santa Cruz hold wild tortoises that roam freely, and guides know where they are feeding on the day.
What is a lava tunnel?+
It is a hollow tube formed when the surface of a lava flow cooled while molten rock drained out underneath. You can walk through a section of one with a torch.
Do I need to pay an entry fee on top of the tour?+
Reserves on private land often charge a small fee, which tours usually include. Your national park entry fee, paid on arrival, is separate.
What should I wear?+
Closed, grippy shoes and a light rain jacket. Boots are often lent, since paths can be muddy and the tunnel floor wet.
Can I go on my own?+
You can reach the highlands by taxi or bicycle, but a guided trip is easier for finding animals and learning about them, and it usually covers the tunnel too.
