Hotel Playa Sol Cadaques

Cadaques is one of the most beautiful and remote villages on the Costa Brava, and staying overnight is the best way to experience it. Hotel Playa Sol sits beside the bay, where the whitewashed houses curve around the water and the fishing boats rest on the sand. From here the old town, the church and the waterfront restaurants are close, and the drive to the Dali house at Portlligat is short. Cadaques empties of day-trippers in the evening, and the light at dusk is memorable. The hotel suits couples and those who want to combine art, swimming and walking in the Cap de Creus park. Facilities are those of a traditional seaside hotel, so check the details of rooms and views before booking.

Getting to Cadaques takes effort. The road from the main highway winds over a ridge, and the last stretch can be slow in summer. That isolation is part of the village's character, and it also means that a night here gives you a quiet evening and early morning when the crowds are gone. Stay at least one night if you can, and two if you want to hike in Cap de Creus or take a boat to the coves.

Plan the Dali sights carefully. The Portlligat house uses timed entry and limited numbers, so reserve tickets ahead of your stay or take a guided day trip from Girona that includes them. The village itself is easy to explore on foot: climb to the church of Santa Maria for views, wander the lanes, and sit at a waterfront cafe. Swimming is possible from small beaches, and kayak and boat trips operate in season.

Hotels in Cadaques fill quickly in July and August, and some close in winter, so check dates. Rooms with sea views cost more but are worth it for the morning light. Parking is limited in the village, so ask the hotel about arrangements. The area is rich in seafood, so make the most of local anchovies, rice dishes and grilled fish. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for walking, with soft light and quieter streets.

Weather can change the mood quickly in Cadaques. The Tramuntana wind sometimes blows for days, clearing the air and whipping the bay, which makes for dramatic photographs and sheltered terrace lunches. Pack a light windproof jacket even in summer, and keep an eye on the forecast if you plan boat trips. Whatever the conditions, the village remains photogenic, and a hot drink in a harbour cafe is a fine way to watch the sea.