Dali Theatre-Museum Figueres

Salvador Dali called the Teatre-Museu Dali in Figueres his greatest work of art, and it feels like one: a former municipal theatre, gutted in the Civil War, rebuilt as a walk-through surrealist stage set under a glass geodesic dome and topped with giant eggs and golden figures. Inside are paintings, sculptures, installations and tricks of perspective that mix humour and genius, including the Mae West Room, the Rainy Taxi and Dali's crypt beneath the stage. The museum is about forty kilometres north of Girona and easy to reach, but a small-group tour solves the problem of timed entry, parking and context. This tour pairs Figueres with a walk through Girona, so you take in both of the region's headline sights in a single day with a guide.

The Figueres visit is the heart of the day. The guide usually takes the group inside at a scheduled time, which saves queueing, and offers a short introduction to Dali's life and obsessions before leaving you to explore. The building is a labyrinth, so it helps to know where to start: the courtyard with the Cadillac, the stage with its huge backdrop, then the rooms of paintings and drawings that range from his early realist work to the melting-clock imagery that made him famous.

Look up, because the ceiling frescoes and the dome are part of the show. Dali is buried in a crypt beneath the stage, and the quiet there is a contrast to the noise of the galleries.

Girona rounds out the day with a walking tour of the old quarter. Depending on the schedule, you may see the Onyar houses, the cathedral exterior, the Jewish Quarter and a few of the lanes used for film shoots. The combination makes sense geographically, because Figueres and Girona sit on the same rail and road corridor, and it contrasts two sides of Catalan culture: the medieval city and the modern genius. Transport is usually by minibus from Girona, and groups are small, so there is time for questions and photographs.

Practical details matter. The museum can be crowded in summer, with timed entries that sell out, so booking ahead is wise. Wear comfortable shoes, because both Figueres and Girona involve a lot of walking, and bring a light layer for air conditioned galleries. Photography rules vary inside, so follow signs and staff instructions.

If you want to see more of Dali, the Cadaques and Portlligat day trip or the Dali Triangle option adds the house where he lived and the castle in Pubol. Check the pickup point and the language of your guide when you book, and keep ID and tickets handy.

Figueres itself deserves an hour if your schedule allows. The Rambla is lined with cafes, the Toy Museum is a few steps from the Dali building, and the town has a long tradition of fairs and bakeries. If you travel on your own by train, the station is a short walk from the museum, and the journey from Girona takes under an hour. A guided tour's advantage is that the museum hours and the Girona stop are coordinated for you, leaving you free to concentrate on the art.

Look for the details that guides love to point out: the bread loaves on the facade, the golden figures on the roof, and the trompe l'oeil ceiling that seems to drop away. The museum also includes the Dali Jewels in a separate gallery, and some versions of the visit mention it. Whether you leave a fan or a sceptic, the museum stays with you, and the surrounding region will make more sense afterward.