Most visitors come to Goa for the dry months, but the monsoon turns the Western Ghats vivid green, fills the streams and brings out the forest. The monsoon trek at Tambdi Surla is built for that season, a guided five to six hour outing in the forested hills of east Goa that has earned a perfect 5.0 from more than a hundred and forty reviews. The destination is the Tambdi Surla area, where the Mahadeva temple stands in the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. The temple is carved from dark basalt, dates from the Kadamba period in the twelfth century and is widely regarded as the oldest surviving temple in Goa, having come through the Portuguese era intact. The trek takes in forest paths, streams and the damp, mossy atmosphere that only the rains create, and a local guide points out plants, fungi, insects and birds along the way. The surroundings feel a long way from the resorts, and the contrast between the quiet stone temple and the wet green forest is the memory most trekkers take home. It suits fit, adventurous travellers who do not mind getting muddy, and it offers a side of Goa that dry-season visitors never see.
The season and the conditions
This is a rainy-season activity, so it runs in the monsoon months, broadly from June to September, and is not a year-round option. Expect wet trails, leeches in some stretches, slippery rock and stream crossings. The guide chooses the route according to the conditions, and the pace is steady rather than fast. Carry rain protection, wear shoes with good grip and consider leech socks, which are common on forest treks in the region.
The temple
Mahadeva at Tambdi Surla is small but remarkable, built of basalt, with finely carved ceilings, pillars and a Nandi bull facing the shrine. It was never wrecked in the way many Goan temples were, which makes it a rare window into the Kadamba era. The setting among forest and hills is as much a part of the experience as the stone itself, and the guide brings the history to life.
Who it suits and what to bring: reasonably fit adults and teenagers who enjoy walking in nature, with or without prior trekking experience. It is not an easy stroll, and it is not suitable for anyone with mobility issues. Pack a light rain jacket, a change of clothes, water, a dry bag for electronics, insect repellent and a small snack.
Leave valuables behind and use a waterproof phone case. If you are visiting Goa outside the monsoon, ask about the other ways to reach the temple, since the same area can be seen by road on a dry-season excursion, and consider pairing it with Dudhsagar and a spice plantation, which lie in the same part of the state.
What to expect
The experience
A guided forest trek in the Western Ghats towards the Tambdi Surla area and its twelfth-century Mahadeva temple, with a local guide.
Best time
The monsoon, broadly June to September, when the forest is green and the streams are full. It is a rainy-season outing.
How long
Five to six hours, including walking time and stops.
Tips
Wear grippy shoes, bring rain gear, a change of clothes, a dry bag and leech socks, and expect mud.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Fit, adventurous travellers who want a different Goa in the rainy season.
- Families
- Best for teenagers and active older children; the trails are wet and slippery.
- Couples
- A shared adventure in the green hills that ends at a quiet ancient temple.
- Pair with
- Dudhsagar Falls, a spice plantation visit and the Chandor heritage trail.
- Time needed
- Most of a day including transfers.
Good questions
When does the trek run?+
It is a monsoon activity, broadly June to September, when the forest and streams are at their best. It is not a dry-season option.
What is at Tambdi Surla?+
The Mahadeva temple, a twelfth-century Kadamba basalt temple widely regarded as the oldest surviving temple in Goa, set in the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary.
How hard is it?+
Moderate. The trails are wet and slippery, with possible stream crossings, so reasonable fitness is needed.
Will there be leeches?+
They are common on forest trails during the monsoon, so leech socks and insect repellent are a good idea.
What should I wear?+
Quick-drying clothes, shoes with strong grip, a light rain jacket and a spare change of clothes. Use a dry bag for electronics.
