The Southern Archipelago

The southern archipelago is the easiest way to leave the city without leaving the city. From the centre, take tram 11 to the end of the line at Saltholmen, then hop on a local ferry to islands such as Brännö, Styrsö, Donsö and Vrångö. The islands are mostly car-free, with narrow lanes, wooden houses, small harbours and granite shores where locals swim from rocks and jetties. Each island has its own personality: Brännö is known for its lively harbour cafes and a gentle bicycle loop, Styrsö for quiet lanes and a pretty church, Donsö for a working fishing harbour, and Vrångö, the furthest, for sandy beaches and nature trails. Ferries run regularly all year, with more frequent summer service, and the same fare as the city transit system covers many routes.

A good plan is to pick one island and spend a slow day on it. On Brännö, walk the lanes to the Rödbergen rock areas for a swim and drop into one of the harbour restaurants for fish soup or shrimp. On Styrsö, follow the signed path across the island to quiet bays and small cafes. On Vrångö, a longer ferry ride rewards you with long beaches, heath and sea-grass paths, and a sense of being far from any city. Bikes can be rented on some islands, and walking is easy.

The southern archipelago contrasts with the outer-island Vinga trip: it is easier, cheaper and more social, with places to eat, while Vinga is more dramatic and remote. For visitors wanting local life, an island night in a guesthouse is a lovely alternative to staying in the city. Whatever you choose, treat the islands as residential places: keep to paths, take your rubbish with you and respect private gardens. The rewards are a swim, a long lunch and a ferry ride home with the skyline coming into view.

To plan the day well, think in terms of loops rather than destinations. On Brännö, a gentle circuit takes you from the harbour past the church, through small lanes of wooden houses to the rocks on the west side, and back via the cafes, in around two hours at an easy pace.

On Styrsö, signposted paths link the ferry stops across the island, so you can arrive at one jetty and leave from another. On Vrångö, the walk to the southern tip crosses open heath with sea views and rewards you with sandy coves where children can paddle.

Food on the islands is simple and seasonal, often fish, shrimp and fresh bread, and cafes may keep short hours in spring and autumn. Many visitors bring a picnic and buy ice cream or coffee on arrival. If the weather turns, there are small shelters, galleries and museums on some islands, and the return ferry is always an option. Before you leave, check the last departure again and allow ten minutes at the pier, since queues form for the evening boats in summer.