Xingping sits on the Li River about twenty-five kilometres from Yangshuo and is the place many people mean when they picture the classic Guilin landscape. The old town has a long riverfront street, stone steps down to the water and a tangle of lanes full of cafes, shops and homestays, but the real draw is just outside it, where the river curves between huge karst peaks. This is the area that appears on the back of the twenty-yuan banknote, and photographers gather here at dawn and dusk when the light is softest. A few fishermen still work on slender bamboo rafts with cormorants, the trained birds that dive for fish, and you can watch the display in the early morning or evening. It is atmospheric, scenic and refreshingly calmer than Yangshuo.
What to do
Start with a stroll along the old street and down to the waterfront, where you can look out across the river to the peaks. Boats and rafts run short trips to the famous bend, often called the Yellow Cloth Reach, and the hills reflected in the still water are the classic Li River photograph.
At dawn, mist drifts across the river and fishermen glide out on their rafts, while at sunset the hills turn gold and then blue. The cormorant fishing is a working tradition that has become a small attraction, and some fishermen pose for photographs for a fee, so agree on any payment before you take pictures.
Hiking and views
Laozhai Hill, a short climb above the river, is the standard viewpoint for the banknote scene, and several other paths lead through villages and orchards. If you are keen on walking, a stretch of the river from Xingping towards Yangdi is a long but very beautiful riverside route that is also popular on bicycles. Xianggong Hill, a short drive away, offers another dawn viewpoint, and the two work well together on a single early-morning outing.
Staying or visiting
Many travellers stay overnight in Xingping to catch the early light, and the town has a good range of simple inns and boutique guesthouses. If you are visiting on a day trip, an early start is worth the effort, since the town is quietest and the light best before the tour groups arrive. The tour linked here focuses on a photographic sunset with the fishermen, which suits anyone who wants to be on the river at the best time of day.
Practical advice
Bring a jacket in the cooler months, as river mornings and evenings are chilly. Wear shoes with grip for the viewpoint steps and carry some small change for rafts, snacks and photographs. Low mist can obscure the peaks on grey days, so check the forecast and be flexible. Evenings in the old town are lively without being rowdy, with food stalls and cafes, and prices are generally lower than in West Street.
The village is small and walkable, so a few hours is enough to see the highlights, though longer is better if you want to soak up the atmosphere. If you stay for dinner, the riverfront cafes serve simple local dishes, and the walk back along the lit-up street at dusk is one of the quiet pleasures of the visit.
What to expect
The experience
A photographic sunset tour to Xingping with a driver, including time on the riverfront and with the cormorant fishermen.
Best time
Sunrise or sunset in spring and autumn, when mist and soft light bring out the peaks.
How long
Two to four hours at the river, depending on the light, with transfers on top.
Tips
Bring a jacket, agree any photo payment in advance, wear shoes with grip and keep the forecast in mind.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Photographers and anyone who wants the classic Li River view without a crowded boat.
- Families
- Easy, scenic and flat in the town, though evening light means a later night.
- Couples
- Golden-hour light over the river is wonderfully romantic.
- Pair with
- Xianggong Hill sunrise, a Li River bamboo raft and a Yangshuo cycling day.
- Time needed
- A few hours around sunrise or sunset, or a night in town.
Good questions
Where is the banknote view?+
The scene on the back of the twenty-yuan note is on the river bend near Xingping, and the usual viewpoint is Laozhai Hill above the water.
Can I see the cormorant fishermen?+
Yes, they work from bamboo rafts around dawn and dusk. Some pose for photographs for a fee, so agree on the price first.
How far is Xingping from Yangshuo?+
About twenty-five kilometres, which is a 40-minute drive or so. Many tours include it as part of a Li River day.
Is it worth staying overnight?+
Yes, if you want the early light. The old town has a good range of simple inns and guesthouses.
When is the best time of day?+
Sunrise and sunset, when the light is soft and the mist is most atmospheric.
