Hoan Kiem Lake is the soul of Hanoi. The name means Lake of the Returned Sword, after the legend of an emperor who was lent a magic sword by a golden turtle to drive out invaders, and who gave it back to the lake when the war was won. Whatever the truth, locals still treat the lake with affection, and a lap of it, about two kilometres, is the easiest way to see the city waking up. At dawn the shore is filled with people doing Tai Chi, jogging, practising badminton and drinking coffee, and in the evening couples and families come to stroll and eat ice cream. The lake is free and open at all hours. On a small island on the northern side stands Ngoc Son Temple, the Temple of the Jade Mountain, reached by a red wooden bridge. It honours the scholar Van Xuong and the national hero Tran Hung Dao, and it has a hall holding a preserved giant turtle from the lake. The temple charges an entry fee, while the lake itself does not.
How it works
The lake is a public space, free and open all day. Ngoc Son Temple charges 50,000 dong, according to the national tourism board, and is open from 7:00 to 18:00 on weekdays and 7:00 to 22:00 at weekends, so check the hours before you go, as they can change. On weekend evenings the streets around the lake are usually closed to traffic, which gives the area a festive, relaxed feeling, with street performers and stalls.
What to expect
A walk of about forty-five minutes at an easy pace, longer if you stop at the temple, for coffee or for photographs. The red bridge at sunrise or after dark is one of the best-known views in Vietnam. The temple is small, with a courtyard, shrines and the preserved turtle, so allow half an hour. Dress modestly in the shrine, and speak quietly.
Making the most of it
The best time for atmosphere is early morning, between about five and seven, when locals exercise by the water, or just after dusk when the bridge is lit. The summer heat makes midday less comfortable, so schedule other sights then. The lake sits between the Old Quarter and the French Quarter, so it makes an ideal start or end to a walk: head north into the Old Quarter for street food, or south past the Opera House to the Hoa Lo Prison.
Water puppets are staged a few steps from the lake’s northern shore. Watch for scooters at crossings, and keep your phone away from the kerb.
A few extra details help with planning. Benches line the shore, so it is easy to rest, and shaded paths make the walk comfortable even on warm days. The Turtle Tower on a small islet in the south of the lake is a favourite photo spot, though it is not open to visitors.
Food vendors and cafés ring the shore, and the northern end near the temple bridge is the liveliest, with crowds of local families on weekend evenings. Early risers may also spot older residents playing board games or practising calligraphy, which adds to the sense of a living neighbourhood.
What to expect
The experience
A free self-guided walk around the lake, with an optional paid visit to Ngoc Son Temple on its island.
Best time
Dawn for Tai Chi and local life, or dusk when the red bridge is lit.
How long
About forty-five minutes for the lap, plus half an hour at the temple.
Tips
Check the temple hours, dress modestly in the shrine and watch the scooters at crossings.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Everyone: it is the city’s living room and the best free hour in Hanoi.
- Families
- Flat, shaded and easy for children, with ice cream and weekend street performers.
- Couples
- The lit bridge and a lakeside coffee make a classic evening walk.
- Pair with
- The water puppet theatre next to the lake and street food in the Old Quarter.
- Time needed
- About an hour.
Good questions
Is Hoan Kiem Lake free to visit?+
Yes, the lake is free and open at all hours. Only Ngoc Son Temple on its island charges an entry fee.
How much does Ngoc Son Temple cost?+
Entry is 50,000 dong according to the national tourism board. It is open from 7:00 to 18:00 on weekdays and 7:00 to 22:00 at weekends.
What does Hoan Kiem mean?+
It means returned sword, after the legend of an emperor who gave a magic sword back to a golden turtle in the lake.
How long does it take to walk around Hoan Kiem Lake?+
About forty-five minutes at an easy pace, since the circuit is around two kilometres.
When is the best time to visit the lake?+
Early morning for exercise and Tai Chi, or after dusk when the red bridge is lit. Weekend evenings are lively with traffic-free streets.
