The Church of the Holy Spirit, the Heiliggeistkirche, rises from the center of the Marktplatz and is the great church of Heidelberg's Old Town. Founded in 1398, it took shape in the early fifteenth century: the hall choir was completed in 1410 and the nave in 1441, and the tower was finished in the early sixteenth century. Its galleries once held the Palatine Library, one of the greatest book collections in Europe, which was carried off to Rome in 1623 during the Thirty Years' War. French troops damaged the church badly in 1693, and for two centuries Catholics and Protestants shared it, divided by a wall, until it passed to the Protestant church in 1936. Today you can walk the tall, pale interior, hear organ music and see the small shops and stalls that still hug its outer walls. It is a calm, free stop in the middle of the busiest square.
The interior is airy and plain compared with baroque churches, with slender pillars, a high vault and a simplicity left from the Reformation. Look for the gallery where the first books of the Palatine Library were placed, and for the traces of the electors' tombs that were destroyed in the war of 1693. The church was a battleground of faiths, changing between Lutheran and Reformed confessions in the sixteenth century, and the Heidelberg Catechism of 1563 became the confession of the Reformed church from here.
Music is a good reason to go. Short organ concerts are given on certain days in the late afternoon, and an hour of church music is held on Saturday evenings, so plan around them if you can. Visitor hours are generally late morning to late afternoon, a little later on Sundays, with special hours during Advent, when the church becomes a quiet refuge from the Christmas market outside. The tower can be climbed at times, but its opening hours are not reliable, so ask at the information desk on the day.
Combine it with the Marktplatz, which is also where the Hercules Fountain, the town hall and the weekly market are found. The church takes about twenty to thirty minutes to see properly. Be respectful of services and rehearsals, avoid flash photography and keep your voice low. Guided visits can be arranged by contacting the parish, and holders of the city card get a discount on organ concerts.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit of the nave, galleries and outer walls, with organ music on certain days and a tower climb when available.
Best time
Late afternoon on days with a short organ concert, or any quiet weekday morning.
How long
Twenty to thirty minutes, longer with a concert.
Tips
Check the visiting hours because Advent hours differ, ask at the information desk about the tower and keep voices low during services. The church is in the middle of the Marktplatz.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History and architecture fans, and anyone who wants a quiet break on the busiest square.
- Families
- Short enough for children, with the old shops in the buttresses to spot.
- Couples
- An evening organ concert before dinner in the Steingasse.
- Pair with
- The Marktplatz, the Hercules Fountain and the Old Bridge.
- Time needed
- Half an hour, or an hour with a concert.
Good questions
When was the Church of the Holy Spirit built?+
It was founded in 1398, with the hall choir finished in 1410 and the nave in 1441. The tower was completed in the early sixteenth century.
What was the Palatine Library?+
It was a famous book collection begun in the church galleries and moved to Rome in 1623 during the Thirty Years' War. Part of it later returned to Heidelberg.
Why was the church divided?+
After the destruction of 1693, Catholics and Protestants shared it for two centuries, separated by a wall. The Protestant church took over the whole building in 1936.
Can I climb the tower?+
Sometimes. Tower visits are run through the information desk and have no reliable hours, so ask on the day.
Are there concerts?+
Yes, short organ concerts and a Saturday hour of church music take place on set days. Dates change through the year, so check the schedule.
