Heidelberg's Altstadt is long, narrow and lively, squeezed between the Neckar and the castle hill. Its backbone is the Hauptstraße, a pedestrian street of roughly one and a half kilometres lined with shops, cafes, bakeries and baroque facades that rose after the French destroyed the medieval town in 1693. The best squares branch off it: the Marktplatz, with the Hercules Fountain of 1706 to 1709 and the Church of the Holy Spirit; the Kornmarkt, where the funicular to the castle starts and the view up to the ruins is unbeatable; the Universitätsplatz, centre of Germany's oldest university; and the Karlsplatz, which turns into an ice rink in winter. Look out for the Haus zum Ritter from 1592, one of the few Renaissance buildings that survived the destruction. Weekly markets, street musicians and student life keep it busy all year, and in the side lanes you find quiet courtyards and traditional taverns.
The Marktplatz is the heart of it. The Hercules Fountain, built in the early eighteenth century to mark the rebuilding after earlier wars, stands before the town hall, and the square has been pedestrian-only since the late 1970s. A weekly market fills it on market days, and in late November a wooden Christmas village takes over. From here you can see the tower of the Church of the Holy Spirit and, above everything, the ruined castle on the hill.
Student Heidelberg lives in the lanes. The Universitätsplatz and the Old University buildings, the Student Prison and the narrow streets of the Unterstadt hold bookshops, bars and brewhouses that have served generations of students. The Steingasse near the Old Bridge and the Unterstrasse behind the Hauptstraße are good places to eat, and traditional brewhouses and wine taverns offer hearty regional dishes. It is a very walkable area where the best plan is to leave the main street and explore the side lanes.
A few tips
Shops close early on Sundays and many Old Town restaurants open only in the evening on weekdays, so check hours. The cobbles are uneven, and weekend afternoons can be crowded. For a quieter wander, visit in the morning or in the early evening after the day trippers leave. Trams and buses link the Bismarckplatz with the main station and the suburbs, so you can arrive easily from anywhere in the city without a car.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk along the Hauptstraße with detours to the Marktplatz, Kornmarkt, Universitätsplatz and the side lanes.
Best time
Morning for quiet squares, early evening for the lights and the tavern atmosphere.
How long
Two hours for the main sights, a full afternoon if you add shops and a meal.
Tips
Leave the Hauptstraße for the side lanes, check shop hours on Sundays and book a table for dinner at weekends. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobbles.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors, since it ties the castle, the bridge, the university and the squares together on foot.
- Families
- Plenty of space to roam, bakeries for snacks and the Christmas market in winter.
- Couples
- Window-shopping, an evening wine tavern and the castle lit above the rooftops.
- Pair with
- The Church of the Holy Spirit, the Student Prison and the Old Bridge.
- Time needed
- Half a day is ideal.
Good questions
How long is the Hauptstraße?+
It is a pedestrian street of roughly one and a half kilometres running through the middle of the Old Town. It is one of the longest car-free shopping streets in Germany.
What are the best squares in the Old Town?+
Start with the Marktplatz for the fountain and the church, the Kornmarkt for the castle view and the funicular, and the Universitätsplatz for the old university. The Karlsplatz hosts an ice rink in winter.
Why does the Old Town look baroque?+
French troops destroyed the medieval town in 1693, and it was rebuilt in baroque style. Only a few older buildings, such as the Haus zum Ritter, survived.
Is the Old Town open on Sundays?+
The streets, squares and many cafes are open, but most shops close on Sundays. Check restaurant times because some are closed on weekday lunchtimes.
How do I reach the Old Town without a car?+
Trams and buses run to the Bismarckplatz at the western end, and the Altstadt station is a short walk away. Heidelberg's main station is linked to it by tram and bus.
