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The Hudson Valley Without a Car

Hudson Valley guide

The Hudson Valley Without a Car

How to see the valley from New York City by Metro-North, Amtrak, boat and guided tour, which sights work without wheels and which need a taxi or a rental.

The Hudson Valley is often described as a driving destination, but the river has a railway on its east bank, and a good share of the best sights can be reached by train. The key is to choose your stations carefully and accept that some places, such as Storm King and the Hyde Park estates, need a taxi or a tour to complete the journey.

Metro-North Hudson Line

The Hudson Line leaves Grand Central and runs up the east bank, stopping at Tarrytown, Philipse Manor, Peekskill, Cold Spring, Beacon and Poughkeepsie, among others. Travel times range from under an hour to Tarrytown to a little under two hours to Beacon and Poughkeepsie. Check the current timetable and fares before you go, because weekend and off-peak schedules differ from weekday ones. The line follows the river for much of the route, so sit on the left side going north for the best views.

Amtrak

Amtrak's Empire Service runs from Penn Station along the same shore and stops at Poughkeepsie and Rhinecliff, among other places. Rhinecliff is useful for Rhinebeck, though a taxi is needed for the last few miles. Compare Amtrak and Metro-North for your route, as schedules and fares differ.

Best car-free day trips

Beacon is the easiest: leave the station, walk to Dia Beacon, and finish with a food tour or dinner on Main Street. Cold Spring is equally simple, with a village center a short walk from the station. Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow are rich in sights and compact, with taxis for Kykuit and the hilltop hotels. Poughkeepsie gives you the Walkway Over the Hudson, reachable by a walk or a short taxi ride, and is a hub for local cabs to Hyde Park.

By boat

The Bear Mountain cruise from Manhattan takes you up the river in a day, and the Peekskill brunch cruise provides a shorter outing from a Metro-North town. Both are seasonal, so check dates and book early. Cruises are the most relaxing way to see the Highlands, and they remove the stress of timetables.

By guided tour

The Sleepy Hollow and Historic Hudson Valley tour and the Cold Spring and river views tour depart from New York and handle all transport. They cost more than a train ticket but include guiding and a planned itinerary, which suits first-time visitors and those short on time. Compare the stops and the amount of free time before you choose.

What needs help

Storm King Art Center is not on a train line, so plan a taxi or rideshare from Beacon or Cold Spring, and check the return arrangements before you go. The Roosevelt sites and the Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park are best reached by taxi from Poughkeepsie, and you should arrange the return in advance. West Point is also a taxi or tour destination. The Catskills and the Shawangunks are essentially car territory, though some shuttle and bus services exist.

A sample car-free weekend

On Saturday, take an early train to Beacon, spend the morning at Dia, do the food tour at midday, and take a late-afternoon train on to Poughkeepsie for the Walkway at sunset. Stay at the DoubleTree. On Sunday, take a taxi to Hyde Park for the Roosevelt home and library, return to Poughkeepsie and take the train back to the city. It is a satisfying weekend that needs no rental car, only a little planning of the taxi legs.

Planning the details

Check the Metro-North schedule for your travel day, particularly on weekends, when trains run less often than on weekdays. Buy tickets in advance through the railroad's app or at the station, and allow time for ticket machines at busy stations such as Grand Central. Pre-book taxis for the legs that need them, because rural pickups can be slow to arrive, especially on autumn weekends. Pack light, wear comfortable shoes, and carry water and snacks, since not every station has food close by. If a day involves more than one taxi leg, consider a guided tour instead, which can work out simpler and sometimes cheaper for a group.

Money-saving ideas

Off-peak Metro-North tickets are cheaper than peak fares, and weekday day trips are often less crowded. Combine a train day trip with a free sight such as the Walkway Over the Hudson to keep costs down, and bring a picnic for the riverfront. For groups of three or four, a shared taxi leg can cost less than separate bus fares, and a guided tour with transport included can undercut a day of rail tickets, taxis and separate admissions.

Mentioned in this guide

Dia BeaconDo

Dia Beacon

A former Nabisco box-printing factory on the riverfront in Beacon, turned into one of the great museums of minimal and conceptual art. Huge, light-filled galleries and works by Richard Serra, Agnes Martin, Sol LeWitt and Dan Flavin.

Cold Spring and Hudson River Views Day TourDo

Cold Spring and Hudson River Views Day Tour

A guided day from New York City to Cold Spring, the antique-lined riverside village in the Highlands, with river views, historic scenery and time to explore on your own.

Walkway Over the HudsonDo

Walkway Over the Hudson

A former railroad bridge turned elevated park, 212 feet above the river and 1.28 miles long, linking Poughkeepsie and Highland. Free to walk, open daily, and the best Hudson view you can get on foot.

Do

Bear Mountain Hudson River Cruise

A full-day Circle Line cruise from Manhattan up the Hudson to Bear Mountain State Park, past the Palisades and the Highlands, with time ashore to walk, picnic or climb for views.

Hudson River Brunch Cruise from PeekskillDo

Hudson River Brunch Cruise from Peekskill

A relaxed weekend-style cruise from Peekskill on the Hudson, with a meal on board and views of the Highlands, Bear Mountain Bridge and the river towns. Seasonal, with foliage sailings in autumn.

Stay

DoubleTree by Hilton Poughkeepsie

A full-service hotel in downtown Poughkeepsie, close to the train station and the Walkway Over the Hudson, and a sensible base for Hyde Park and the mid-Hudson without a car.

Stay

Castle Hotel and Spa Tarrytown

A hilltop castle hotel above Tarrytown, with Hudson views, a spa and a short drive to Sleepy Hollow, Kykuit and Lyndhurst. The most theatrical place to stay in the lower valley.

Stay

Beekman Arms and Delamater Inn

A historic village inn in the center of Rhinebeck, widely described as the oldest continuously operating inn in America, with period rooms, a tavern and a walkable main street.