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Where to Stay in the Hudson Valley

Hudson Valley guide

Where to Stay in the Hudson Valley

The valley is too long to cover from one bed. Here are five bases, from Tarrytown to the Catskills, with the sights each one makes easy and the kind of traveler it suits.

The Hudson Valley stretches roughly a hundred miles from the northern edge of New York City to Albany, and the sights in this market are spread across about eighty of those miles. Choosing where to sleep is therefore the biggest planning decision, and it is worth thinking about by sight cluster rather than by town. There are five sensible bases, each with its own character.

Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow (the lower valley)

This is the closest base to New York, and the only one that works well without a car. Metro-North reaches Tarrytown and the Philipse Manor station for Sleepy Hollow in under an hour from Grand Central. The sights are Kykuit, Lyndhurst, the Sleepy Hollow church and cemetery, and the Hudson waterfront. The Castle Hotel and Spa is the dramatic choice here, with a hilltop setting and a spa. This base suits history lovers, couples and anyone who wants a short trip from the city, but it is far from Dia, Storm King and the Roosevelt sites.

The Highlands (Bear Mountain, Cold Spring and West Point)

The Highlands are the most scenic stretch of the river, and the area offers good hiking, river views and the cadet-filled grounds of West Point. Overlook Lodge at Bear Mountain puts you in the park, with trails and the lake outside the door. A car is helpful, but Cold Spring is on Metro-North and works as a village base for people who prefer trains. This base suits hikers, families and those who want scenery over sophistication.

Beacon and the east-bank towns

Beacon is the arts town, with Dia Beacon, Main Street restaurants and a Metro-North station. It is the best choice for a car-free art weekend. Lodging in town is limited, so nearby options include Poughkeepsie hotels and village inns. This base suits art lovers, couples and food fans.

The mid-Hudson (Poughkeepsie, Hyde Park and Rhinebeck)

This is the place for presidential and Gilded Age history. The DoubleTree in Poughkeepsie is the logistical choice, close to the train station and the Walkway Over the Hudson, with Hyde Park about fifteen minutes away. The Beekman Arms in Rhinebeck is the characterful choice, a historic inn in a charming village. This base suits history lovers, first-timers and families, and the Poughkeepsie option works for travelers without a car.

The Shawangunks and Ulster County (New Paltz, Gardiner and Accord). This is the outdoors base, with Mohonk Preserve and Minnewaska on the doorstep and wineries, farms and small towns around. Wildflower Farms is the luxury choice, Minnewaska Lodge is the hiker-friendly design lodge, Inness in Accord is a stylish middle option, and the Hampton Inn in New Paltz is the dependable value choice. A car is necessary. This base suits couples, hikers and anyone who wants a quieter, rural feel.

The Catskills (Mount Tremper, Phoenicia, Woodstock and Saugerties). The Catskills are the mountain choice, with scenic drives, canyoning, ice climbing and animal sanctuaries. Emerson Resort and Spa in Mount Tremper offers a resort stay with a spa, while AutoCamp Catskills near Saugerties offers glamping-style suites. A car is necessary, and the distances to the mid-Hudson sights are significant, so this base works best when the Catskills are the focus of the trip.

Matching base to trip

For a first visit of three days, split your stay: two nights in the mid-Hudson or Beacon area and one night in either Tarrytown or the Catskills. For a car-free weekend, choose Tarrytown or Beacon and use trains and taxis. For a hiking weekend, choose the Shawangunks. For a romantic escape, choose Wildflower Farms, the Castle Hotel or the Beekman Arms. Whatever you choose, book early for autumn weekends, when the valley's best hotels fill months ahead.

A few booking habits worth adopting

Start with the sights you cannot move, such as a timed Kykuit tour or a Storm King slot, then choose the base that sits closest to them. Book refundable rates where you can, since weather and foliage timing shift plans. If you are splitting your stay, put the longer drive on a day when you have no timed ticket, and leave the afternoon before a morning ticket free of long transfers. Finally, remember that distance on a map understates travel time in the valley, where river crossings are few and Friday and Sunday traffic can double a trip.

Mentioned in this guide

Dia BeaconDo

Dia Beacon

A former Nabisco box-printing factory on the riverfront in Beacon, turned into one of the great museums of minimal and conceptual art. Huge, light-filled galleries and works by Richard Serra, Agnes Martin, Sol LeWitt and Dan Flavin.

Do

West Point and the US Military Academy

The oldest continuously occupied military post in America, perched on a bend of the Hudson. Stone barracks, the Cadet Chapel, Trophy Point, a major military museum and a guided tour that takes you onto the Plain.

Walkway Over the HudsonDo

Walkway Over the Hudson

A former railroad bridge turned elevated park, 212 feet above the river and 1.28 miles long, linking Poughkeepsie and Highland. Free to walk, open daily, and the best Hudson view you can get on foot.

Catskills Scenic Byway Audio Driving TourDo

Catskills Scenic Byway Audio Driving Tour

A self-guided audio drive through the central Catskills, with mountain views, reservoir overlooks, small towns and the stories of the region told as you go. Cheap, flexible and ideal for a rental-car day.

Stay

Castle Hotel and Spa Tarrytown

A hilltop castle hotel above Tarrytown, with Hudson views, a spa and a short drive to Sleepy Hollow, Kykuit and Lyndhurst. The most theatrical place to stay in the lower valley.

Stay

Wildflower Farms Auberge Collection

A luxury farm-style retreat in Gardiner, below the Shawangunk Ridge, with cottages and suites, a spa, gardens and a farm-to-table restaurant. A high-end base for Mohonk, Minnewaska and New Paltz.

Stay

Emerson Resort and Spa

A Catskills mountain resort in Mount Tremper with a spa, a restaurant and a woodland setting, handy for Woodstock, Phoenicia and the high peaks.

Stay

DoubleTree by Hilton Poughkeepsie

A full-service hotel in downtown Poughkeepsie, close to the train station and the Walkway Over the Hudson, and a sensible base for Hyde Park and the mid-Hudson without a car.