The Fairy Pools are the picture most people have in mind before they ever reach Skye: a run of blue and green pools linked by little waterfalls, set in Glen Brittle beneath the jagged ridge of the Black Cuillin. They sit on the MacLeod Estate near Carbost, and the tourism board states plainly that they are free to visit at any time. The walk follows a well-trodden path from the car park beside the glen road, drops towards the river and then runs alongside it past one pool after another. The first cluster is reached in a gentle stroll, and people who keep going are rewarded with quieter water and a closer view of the mountains. In summer the place is crowded and many people swim. In November it is a different experience, with fewer visitors, higher and faster water after rain, cold air and a low sun that can light the ridge beautifully for an hour or two. Sturdy waterproof footwear matters more here than almost anywhere else on the island.
What you are looking at
The pools are fed by streams running off the Cuillin, and the water is famously clear. One of the most photographed pools lies beneath a natural rock arch, and the path to the cluster of falls near the start takes most visitors well under an hour there and back, though the ground is uneven.
The path crosses the river on stepping stones in places, and after heavy rain those crossings can be underwater or slippery, which is common in winter. Do not try to cross in spate. If the river looks high, enjoy the nearer pools from the bank and turn back.
Planning a winter visit
Glen Brittle is reached by a long single-track road, so allow generous driving time and expect passing places rather than a proper road. Daylight is short in Scotland in November and December, so start early, carry a torch if you might be late and let someone know your plan.
Expect to pay for parking, and expect the car park to be muddy. There are no cafes at the pools, so bring a flask. Wild swimming is a matter of personal risk; in winter the water is dangerously cold and cold-water shock is real, so most visitors will be happier simply watching.
Making the most of it
Combine the walk with a drive to Talisker Distillery at Carbost, which is close, or with the Sligachan end of the Cuillin for a view of the Red and Black ranges. Many day tours from Inverness include a stop of roughly an hour and a half here, which is enough for the first pools but not for the full walk.
If you drive yourself, visit on a day when the cloud base sits above the summits, since low cloud hides the mountains and flattens the scene. Dogs are welcome on a lead, and children enjoy the stepping stones if the water is low.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk along the River Brittle from the glen road car park, past a series of pools and small waterfalls with the Black Cuillin ahead.
Best time
Early morning or the hours after sunrise in winter, on a dry day when the cloud sits above the summits and the river is low.
How long
About an hour and a half for the first pools and back, two to three hours if you go further up the glen.
Tips
Wear waterproof boots with grip, avoid the river crossings after rain, bring a torch in winter and expect a parking charge and plenty of mud.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants the classic Skye waterfall scene, and photographers who like water against mountains.
- Families
- Fine for older children on a dry day, but the stepping stones are slippery and the water is cold, so keep hold of small hands.
- Couples
- A quiet low-sun walk in November, then a warm drink at a Portree restaurant on the way back.
- Pair with
- Talisker Distillery at Carbost, Sligachan for the Cuillin view and Dunvegan on the road west.
- Time needed
- Allow half a day including the drive down Glen Brittle.
Good questions
Is there an entry fee for the Fairy Pools?+
No, the pools are free to visit at any time. You will normally pay for parking, which is the only usual cost.
Can you swim at the Fairy Pools in winter?+
It is possible but not sensible for most people, because the water is very cold and cold-water shock is a real danger. Watching from the bank is safer.
How long is the walk?+
The first pools are reached in a short walk and most visitors spend about an hour and a half in total. Going further up the glen adds time and rougher ground.
Are the Fairy Pools suitable for children?+
Yes on a dry day, as the path is mostly easy, but river crossings can be slippery. Supervise closely near the water.
Do day tours from Inverness stop at the Fairy Pools?+
Many do, usually for a stop of about an hour and a half. If you want the full walk, a self-drive or a small-group tour with a longer stop suits better.
