Portree is the island's capital in all but name, a small harbour town of coloured houses wrapped around a sheltered bay. The tourism board calls it the main town and an ideal base for exploring the rest of the island, with good transport links, independent shops and restaurants and pubs serving fresh seafood. The harbour is the centrepiece, with fishing boats coming and going, and above it sits Somerled Square, the town's bus stop and meeting place. A short walk leads to the Lump, a small hill by the harbour, and the town's name is often explained as the Gaelic for the king's port. Entry to the town is free, and a slow hour round the harbour and the lanes behind it is a pleasure in any season. In winter Portree is quieter, with a calmer pace, but it stays the most reliable place on Skye for dinner, supplies and a bed.
Why it works as a base
Public transport links Portree to Dunvegan, Uig, Staffin and Broadford, and the main sights are within easy driving distance. The Old Man of Storr car park is about 6.8 miles north, the Quiraing is around 21 miles away and the Fairy Pools and Talisker are on the road south and west.
By road, Inverness is about three hours away, and the bus takes around three and a half. For the best choice of hotels, restaurants and shops, there is nowhere else on the island that compares, which is why the Cuillin Hills Hotel and the Bosville are both here.
What to do in town
Walk the harbour, climb to the viewpoint over the bay, browse the shops and galleries and have a long meal. Evening live music is a feature of some venues, and the annual Skye Live Festival takes place in Portree. Boat trips from the harbour run in the warmer months and finish for the winter, so do not plan on one in November. Many cafes and some restaurants cut their days or close entirely between late autumn and spring, so book dinner ahead and check opening days before you go.
Practical advice
Parking in the centre fills in summer but is rarely a problem in winter, though a few places have limited spaces and no parking, so check when you book a room. Daylight is short in winter, and the best use of it is to drive out to the sights in the morning and return to Portree in the afternoon for a warm meal. Cash machines and supermarkets make it the place to stock up before a remote drive. If you are arriving by bus, Portree is the main interchange for the island.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided wander around the harbour, Somerled Square and the lanes behind, with meals and shopping on the way.
Best time
Late afternoon, when the harbour light is soft and the restaurants open for dinner.
How long
Two to four hours for a walk and a meal, or use it as an overnight base.
Tips
Book dinner ahead in winter, check opening days, and stock up on fuel and supplies before long drives.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who needs a base, a good dinner and a gentle walk between the big scenic days.
- Families
- Easy and flat around the harbour, with plenty of cafes, though some close early in winter.
- Couples
- A harbour walk at dusk, then a seafood dinner.
- Pair with
- The Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing to the north, Dunvegan to the west.
- Time needed
- A few hours, or a night or two as a base.
Good questions
Is Portree worth visiting?+
Yes, as the island's main town with the best choice of food, shops and places to stay. It is also the practical base for the northern sights.
How far is Portree from Inverness?+
About three hours by road, or around three and a half hours by bus.
Do boat trips run from Portree in winter?+
Trips from the harbour are seasonal and generally stop for the winter, so check with operators before planning one.
Is there parking in Portree?+
Yes, but it can be tight in the centre in summer, and some hotels have no parking, so ask when you book.
Which sights are close to Portree?+
The Old Man of Storr is about 6.8 miles north and the Quiraing around 21 miles. Dunvegan and the Fairy Pools are a longer drive west and south.
