The Agora of Smyrna was the administrative, judicial and commercial centre of the ancient city. The site museum notes that construction began after the time of Alexander the Great, from the late fourth century BC, and that builders levelled the sloping ground with cellars and created a terrace surrounded by porticoes. The agora was rebuilt in Roman times after a devastating earthquake, and the arcades, arched substructures and fallen columns you walk among today belong largely to that phase. Its use as a cemetery in the Byzantine and Ottoman periods helped preserve it. Excavations began in 1932 under Selahattin Kantar and Rudolf Naumann, and work continues under Akın Ersoy of Dokuz Eylül University, so you may see archaeologists at work on parts of the site. It is an open-air archaeological site set among modern neighbourhoods, a short walk from Kemeraltı Bazaar, and you can see it properly in about an hour.
What you see is a broad terraced rectangle with ranks of stone arches below, rows of fallen and re-set columns, carved capitals and blocks, and information panels that explain the layers. The vaulted cellars on the lower level are the most striking part, since they show how the Romans solved the problem of a sloping site, and they are the best place to feel the scale of the old market. Look for decorated fragments laid out near the entrance and read the panels to follow the story from Hellenistic Smyrna through the Roman reconstruction to the Ottoman cemetery.
Visiting well
The Agora is a state-run archaeological site with a ticket office. Adults of all nationalities pay a modest fee in euros, children from outside Turkey up to eight years old enter free, and the Museum Pass The Aegean is accepted, which makes sense if you are also visiting Pergamon or Ephesus. Winter hours apply from 1 October to 1 April, with the site open from 08:30 to 17:30 and the ticket office closing at 17:00, so in winter aim for late morning or early afternoon and leave before the light fades.
Tickets are sold on site and through the national e-ticket service. Wear sturdy shoes, as the ground is uneven and slippery after rain, and bring a hat and water in summer, since shade is limited.
Where it fits
The site is on the southern edge of the Kemeraltı district, so combine it with a bazaar walk and lunch among the lanes, then return to Konak Square for the Clock Tower and the waterfront. If you are interested in ancient İzmir, pair it with the İzmir Archaeology Museum, which displays finds from the city and region, and with the hilltop of Kadifekale, which crowned the Hellenistic city. Allow an hour to an hour and a half for the visit, and slow down at the arched cellars.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk through an open-air archaeological site with arcades, cellars, columns and information panels.
Best time
Late morning or early afternoon in winter, when it is warmest and before the 17:30 closing.
How long
About an hour to ninety minutes, longer if you read every panel.
Tips
Wear shoes with grip, bring water in summer and check the Museum Pass The Aegean if you plan to visit several state sites.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers and anyone who wants to see ancient Smyrna in the middle of the city.
- Families
- Open space and arches suit older children, but there is little shade and the ground is uneven.
- Couples
- A quiet, atmospheric hour among the arches before lunch in the bazaar.
- Pair with
- Kemeraltı Bazaar, the İzmir Archaeology Museum and Kadifekale.
- Time needed
- One to one and a half hours.
Good questions
Is the Agora of Smyrna open in winter?+
Yes. Winter hours apply from 1 October to 1 April, with the site open from 08:30 to 17:30 and the ticket office closing at 17:00.
How much does it cost to enter?+
Adults of all nationalities pay a modest fee in euros, and children from outside Turkey up to eight enter free. The Museum Pass The Aegean is accepted.
What is there to see?+
Stone arcades, vaulted cellars, columns and carved fragments from the Hellenistic and Roman agora, with panels explaining the history. Excavations are still under way.
How long does a visit take?+
About an hour to ninety minutes is enough for most people, with extra time if you read the panels and photograph the cellars.
Is it close to the bazaar?+
Yes, it lies on the southern edge of the Kemeraltı district, so you can easily combine the two on foot in a single half day.
