Shekhawati, in the dry northern part of Rajasthan, is the most surprising region within reach of Jaipur. In the nineteenth century, local merchant families grew wealthy on trade and spent their fortunes on grand mansions known as havelis, with courtyards, gateways and facades covered in painted frescoes. Nawalgarh is one of the best places to see them. The paintings show gods and goddesses, scenes from epics, hunting parties, wedding processions and, in charming surprise, steam trains, cars and even early aeroplanes, painted by artists who were fascinated by the modern world. Many of the havelis are now quiet, some are cared for as small museums and some are still lived in. A guided day trip from Jaipur takes you through the town and into several of them, with someone to explain the iconography and to get you through the doors, which are not always open. It is a thoughtful, low-key excursion for travellers who love art, architecture and local life, and it is far less crowded than the headline sights.
Getting there and timing
The drive from Jaipur takes around three hours each way, so most trips leave in the morning and return in the evening. The tour usually covers a handful of havelis, perhaps including a museum, a fort-style building and one or two private homes, plus a lunch stop. Opening hours and access vary, and some havelis charge a small entry fee, so check what is included when you book.
What to look for
Study the outer walls and the courtyards, where the best frescoes often survive. Look for scenes of Krishna and the gopis, regional kings on horseback, European figures in top hats, and the surprising modern motifs that make the region famous. Many paintings are faded or damaged by weather and neglect, and the upkeep depends on the owners. A guide can show you which houses retain the most detail and explain the stories behind the images.
Practical tips
Wear comfortable walking shoes, a hat and sun protection, because there is little shade between the buildings. The cooler months are the best season, and summer afternoons are very hot. Dress modestly, since several of the houses are private homes, and ask permission before photographing residents.
If you want a deeper visit, consider combining Nawalgarh with a night in the region, since the heritage hotels in Shekhawati are a pleasure in their own right. For a single day, expect a lot of driving, and plan to keep your expectations on the quiet, atmospheric side.
What to expect
The experience
A guided day trip into Shekhawati to explore the fresco-covered merchant havelis of Nawalgarh.
Best time
October to March, starting early to make the most of the daylight.
How long
A full day with about three hours of driving each way.
Tips
Wear comfortable shoes and a hat, dress modestly in private homes, and check which havelis are included.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Art and architecture lovers who like quiet places.
- Families
- Older children can enjoy the trains and cars in the paintings, but the drive is long.
- Couples
- An atmospheric day away from the crowds.
- Pair with
- A block-printing or craft session back in Jaipur the next day.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
What is Shekhawati known for?+
It is known for the merchant havelis with painted frescoes, sometimes called an open-air art gallery.
How far is Nawalgarh from Jaipur?+
It is a drive of roughly three hours each way, so tours run as a full day.
Are the havelis open to visitors?+
Several are, some for a small fee. A guide helps with access.
What is painted on the walls?+
Gods, epics, hunting scenes, processions and even trains, cars and aeroplanes.
When is the best time to go?+
October to March is the most comfortable season for walking between the buildings.
