Eating is one of the great pleasures of Koh Samui. The island sits in the south of Thailand, so the food is hotter, saltier and more seafood-heavy than the central Thai dishes many visitors know, and the range runs from a simple snack at a market stall to long tasting dinners at a clifftop resort. This guide lays out what to eat, where to find it and how to organise a food-led trip.
What to eat
Southern Thai cooking leans on fresh turmeric, coconut, chilli, shrimp paste and fish, and many dishes arrive properly spicy. Look for yellow and sour curries made with fish, a variety of grilled and steamed seafood, fresh crab and squid, and noodle and rice dishes served with herbs and vegetables. At breakfast, expect rice porridge, eggs and fruit, and dessert often means coconut, mango and sticky rice. Fresh fruit is excellent, with pineapple, papaya, watermelon and the local coconuts. Ask for a dish mild if you cannot take the heat, and learn the phrase for less chilli.
Night markets and street food
The cheapest and often the most fun meals are at the island's night markets. Fisherman's Village in Bophut holds a Friday walking street with stalls, snacks, drinks and crafts, and Chaweng and Lamai have regular night markets with grilled meats, noodles, pancakes and fruit shakes. Street food is generally safe if you choose busy stalls with high turnover and food cooked in front of you, and it is a good way to try small portions of many dishes. Bring small notes and cash, since many stalls do not take cards.
Seafood on the beach
Samui's classic splurge is a seafood dinner with your feet nearly in the sand. Beach restaurants display the day's catch on ice, and you choose the fish, the weight and the way it is cooked. Ask the price per weight before you order, check how the dish will be cooked and keep an eye on the final bill, since seafood is where costs add up. Good places to look are the beach strips at Bophut, Chaweng and Lamai and the quieter bays on the west coast, which are best for sunsets.
Fisherman's Village and Bophut
The old shop-houses along the waterfront are the island's most atmospheric dining street, with restaurants covering Thai, Mediterranean, steakhouse and seafood menus. It suits couples and groups who want to sit outside with a drink and choose from several options, and it is walkable from several beachfront hotels. Prices are higher than at the markets, but the setting makes up for it. Reserve ahead for Friday nights in the high season from December to April.
Cooking classes and food tours
A market tour and cooking class is the best way to understand Thai food and take something home. You shop with a local cook, learn how to pound a curry paste, balance sweet, sour, salty and spicy, and cook and eat your own meal. Classes suit families, couples and solo travellers, and many include hotel transfers. Food tours that walk you through the island's local stalls and small restaurants with a guide are another option, and a good first-night orientation.
Drinks and sunset bars
Samui's drinks scene runs from beach bars with cheap beer and cocktails in Chaweng to quiet cliff-top terraces on the south and west coasts, where sunset is the point. Fresh coconut water and fruit shakes are the daytime staples. The island's best sunset spots face west, so look to the west and south coasts, or take a sunset dinner cruise, which puts a buffet and the sky in one evening. Alcohol rules include restricted sale hours and some bans on holidays, so check locally. Drink bottled or filtered water.
Practical tips
Eat where the locals eat, and look for busy places. Tip small amounts in restaurants if a service charge is not already added. Ask about allergies clearly, because fish sauce, shrimp paste and peanuts are common. Book dinner ahead for special occasions in the peak season, and plan a food-led evening around the walking street or night market. If you travel with children, ask restaurants for plain rice, grilled chicken or fruit, which most kitchens can prepare in minutes, and share dishes across the table so everyone can try a little of everything. Keep a few snacks and a water bottle in your bag for long transfers. With a market, a beach and a sunset on the list, you will eat well on Samui, whatever your budget.
