Kota Kinabalu's waterfront is where the city eats in the evening. A cluster of markets and food courts lines the sea, including the Todak Waterfront Hawker Centre, a mix of hawker stalls and a seafood market where you pick your fish, prawns or shellfish and the vendors cook it on the spot. It is a short walk from the Segama Night Market. Nearby, the Handicraft Market on Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens, which visitors also know as the Filipino Market, sells sarongs, pearl jewellery and crafts, and has a barbecue seafood area. Bargaining is expected, and the Sabah Tourism Board advises it enthusiastically. Along the waterfront itself you will find restaurants, happy-hour bars and sunset views over the South China Sea. A walk through all of this makes a full evening, and it is also the easiest way to taste the city without booking anything. The best approach is to graze: a little at several stalls, then settle on the seafood grill.
How to eat well
At the seafood market, look at what is freshest, ask the price per kilogram before you choose and agree on the cooking style, whether grilled, steamed or fried with garlic, chilli or sweet sauces. Confirm the total before the food is cooked. The hawker stalls serve rice and noodle dishes, grilled skewers and sweet desserts, so you can mix and match. Sit where you see a steady crowd, which is the best sign of freshness.
What to shop for
The Handicraft Market is the place for sarongs, pearl jewellery, wooden crafts and small souvenirs, and the stalls reward patient, friendly bargaining. Learn a few local greetings, which help set a good tone. Keep your bag zipped, carry small notes and avoid flashing valuables in crowded lanes.
Context and tips
Markets and stalls keep their own hours and conditions, so check locally on the day, and the best time is the early evening, when the sunset is nice and the stalls are setting up. A guided food walk can be useful for a first visit, but most visitors do fine on their own.
The area is close to the downtown hotels, so you can walk back after dinner. Pair it with the Gaya Street Sunday Market if you are in town on a weekend, or with a day on the islands, and finish with a drink on the waterfront.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided evening wander through waterfront hawker stalls, a seafood market and handicraft stalls, ending with a grill dinner.
Best time
Early evening, so that you catch the sunset and the stalls at their freshest.
How long
Two to three hours, including dinner.
Tips
Ask prices per kilogram at the seafood market and confirm the total before cooking. Carry small notes and keep valuables secure.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers who want fresh seafood, street snacks and local atmosphere without a booking.
- Families
- Plenty of choice for fussy eaters, and the open-air setting is relaxed, though crowded at peak times.
- Couples
- Sunset drinks on the waterfront followed by a shared seafood grill.
- Pair with
- Gaya Street Sunday Market, Signal Hill or an island day pair well with an evening here.
- Time needed
- A whole evening.
Good questions
What is the Todak Waterfront Hawker Centre?+
It is a mix of hawker stalls and a seafood market where you choose your catch and the vendors cook it. It is a short walk from the Segama Night Market.
What is the Filipino Market?+
It is the name visitors commonly use for the Handicraft Market area on Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens, with sarongs, pearl jewellery, crafts and a barbecue seafood area.
How do I avoid overpaying for seafood?+
Ask the price per kilogram before choosing, agree the cooking style and confirm the total before the food is cooked. Eat where locals are queuing.
Can I bargain at the stalls?+
Yes, at the handicraft stalls bargaining is expected. Stay friendly, and compare prices at two or three stalls.
Is it safe in the evening?+
The waterfront is busy and well used, but keep your bag zipped and your valuables out of sight, as in any crowded market.
