Rafflesia is a parasitic plant with no leaves, stems or roots of its own, and its flower is the largest in the world, a fleshy red-orange bloom that can reach about a metre across in the biggest species. Sabah is one of the best places on earth to see it, and the Rafflesia reserve near Tambunan, on the road that climbs through the Crocker Range from Kota Kinabalu, protects habitat where rafflesia grows on the roots of wild vines in the forest. A day tour drives up the mountain road, stops at viewpoints, walks into the forest with a local guide and then visits the information centre and the highland town. The wonder of the trip is the flower, but even without a bloom the walk is a pleasant taste of cool, mossy mountain forest. Because blooms last only a few days, the timing of your visit decides what you see, and a good guide will tell you honestly what is flowering.
Why go
The rafflesia is one of the strangest sights in the plant world. The bloom smells of rotting meat to attract carrion flies, which pollinate it, and it opens for only a few days before turning black and collapsing. Before the flower opens, a cabbage-like bud swells on the forest floor or on a vine for months, and buds are often easier to find than blooms.
Guides and local landowners track the buds and tell visitors where flowers are opening. Seeing a fresh bloom, the size of a cartwheel and still, in the middle of the forest, is one of the great nature moments of a Sabah trip.
How the day works
The tour we link to is a day trip from Kota Kinabalu that climbs through the Crocker Range to Tambunan, with a guide, transport and a visit to the reserve. The drive takes around two hours each way on a winding mountain road, with a stop at a viewpoint, and the walk in the reserve is usually short and manageable on forest paths.
The day can combine the reserve with other stops in the Tambunan valley, such as a local market, a waterfall or a lunch at a village restaurant. Ask your operator what the day includes, what any entrance fees are and how they check for blooms before you set out.
What to expect
No one can promise a flower. Blooms are unpredictable, and a visit may find a full flower, a half-open one, a dying one or only buds. All of these are worth seeing, but manage your expectations and treat any bloom as a bonus.
Information centres in the area keep a record of what is flowering and can help your guide choose the right spot. Wear shoes with grip for muddy paths, bring a rain layer and insect repellent, and expect the temperature in the hills to be noticeably cooler than on the coast.
Tips and trade-offs
The road is winding, so anyone prone to car sickness should take a tablet before setting out. The reserve is a day of patience, nature and a long drive rather than an adrenaline trip, so it suits wildlife and plant lovers, photographers and anyone who wants to see something truly unusual.
Do not touch or step on buds and blooms, which are fragile and easy to damage. If your time is short, the Kinabalu Park and Poring day covers more ground, but the Rafflesia reserve is the choice for a special, quiet and very Sabah experience.
What to expect
The experience
A guided day trip from Kota Kinabalu to the Tambunan rafflesia reserve, with a mountain drive, a forest walk and a visit to the highland town.
Best time
Blooms are unpredictable and last only a few days, so go when your schedule allows and ask the guide what is flowering.
How long
About eight hours door to door, with around two hours of winding road each way.
Tips
Wear shoes with grip, bring a rain layer and insect repellent, and do not touch buds or blooms. Take a tablet if you get car sick.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Plant and wildlife lovers and photographers who want something unusual.
- Families
- The walk is short, but the road is winding and a bloom is never guaranteed, so manage expectations with children.
- Couples
- A quiet, cool day in the hills with a rare sight, at a gentler pace than a rafting trip.
- Pair with
- A waterfront dinner back in town, or the Kinabalu Park day on a different date.
- Time needed
- A full day, with a morning start.
Good questions
Will I definitely see a rafflesia flower?+
No. Blooms last only a few days and cannot be predicted. Guides track buds and flowers and tell you what is open, but a visit may find only buds.
How big is a rafflesia flower?+
The largest species can reach about a metre across, and it is the largest single flower in the world. Sabah species vary in size.
Does the flower really smell?+
Yes, it gives off a smell like rotting meat, which attracts the flies that pollinate it. The smell is usually noticeable only close to the bloom.
How long is the drive from Kota Kinabalu?+
About two hours each way on a winding mountain road. Take a travel tablet if you are prone to car sickness.
Is it worth going if there is no flower?+
Many visitors still enjoy the forest walk, the buds and the mountain scenery, but the trip is best for people who value the journey as well as the bloom.
