Krabi is a good place to eat, and not only on the beach. The province sits in southern Thailand, where the food is hotter, saltier and more aromatic than in the central plains, and where seafood, coconut and fresh turmeric appear on almost every table. You can eat well at a roadside stall or a seaside restaurant, and the best approach is to mix both: a local meal at midday, a market dinner on a quiet night and a sit-down seafood evening when you want to treat yourself. Here is how to find your way around the menu.
Southern Thai flavours
The south is known for strong, fiery curries, built on fresh chillies, turmeric and shrimp paste. Look for gaeng som, a sour and spicy yellow curry usually made with fish, and khua kling, a dry-fried meat curry that is intensely hot. Gaeng tai pla is a famously pungent curry with fermented fish innards, which is not for beginners. Milder choices include massaman, with its roasted spices and potatoes, and gaeng kari, a yellow curry with coconut milk. Rice is the base of every meal, and a side of fresh vegetables and herbs is normal. If you cannot take the heat, say mai phet, which means not spicy, and expect a milder version.
Seafood
With the Andaman coast on your doorstep, seafood is the headline. Grilled fish, steamed crab, prawns with garlic and chilli, squid and clams all appear in beach restaurants, usually sold by weight, so ask how the price is calculated before you order. At seafood restaurants you often choose from a display on ice, and the cook prepares it as you like. Fish is also served as a curry, in a soup or with lime, chilli and garlic sauce. Eat seafood where it looks busy and fresh, and prefer places with a good turnover.
Markets and street food
Night markets are the easiest introduction. The weekend night market in Krabi Town, near the river, is a busy spread of grilled skewers, noodles, fruit, desserts and local snacks, and it is a good place to try small portions of many things. Ao Nang has its own evening stalls and food courts, which are handy and cheap after a boat day. Do not miss the roti stands, which fry thin dough on a griddle and fill it with banana, egg and condensed milk, a legacy of the region's Muslim communities. Grilled chicken, sticky rice with mango and fresh coconut water from the shell are good snacks.
Breakfast and coffee
A southern breakfast is often rice porridge, soy milk with fried dough sticks or roti with a small bowl of curry for dipping. Iced Thai tea and Thai coffee are sweet and strong, and fruit shakes are everywhere. Ao Nang and Krabi Town have cafes that serve western breakfasts and good espresso, which is welcome before an early boat tour. If you leave before sunrise, many hotels offer a packed breakfast, so ask the evening before.
Drinks
Local beer is cheap and cold, and tropical cocktails are common in beach bars. Many bars in Ao Nang and Railay have fire shows and beanbags on the sand in the evening. Note that some hotels and restaurants are halal and do not serve alcohol, as in parts of the south, so check before you book if it matters. Drink bottled or filtered water, and be careful with ice from unknown sources, though most restaurants use commercial ice.
Learning to cook
A Thai cooking class is a good way to understand the cuisine. Most classes begin with a market tour or an introduction to ingredients, then teach you to pound curry paste, balance the four flavours of sweet, sour, salty and spicy, and cook several dishes that you eat at the end. It is a good half-day activity, especially on a rainy day or between beach days, and it gives you recipes to try at home.
Practical tips
Eat where the locals eat, and look for a crowd and a short menu. Prices at tourist restaurants are higher than in town, but they are still modest. Carry small notes, because stalls rarely have change for large bills. Tell your waiter about allergies, since peanuts, shellfish and fish sauce are common ingredients. Dress comfortably, expect plastic stools and plenty of napkins, and bring an appetite. Restaurants often close earlier in the quiet season, so check hours, and book ahead for the busiest nights in December and January.
A simple food plan
On your first evening, walk the Ao Nang strip and choose a seafood restaurant with a view. On a second night, take a songthaew to Krabi Town for the night market if it is a weekend. Spend a morning learning to cook, then use your new skills to order more adventurously for the rest of the trip. Finish with a roti and a mango sticky rice, and you will have tasted most of what Krabi has to offer.