The Sentiero del Viandante, the Wayfarer’s Path, is an old mule track that follows the eastern shore of Lake Como high above the water, linking villages that were once connected only by foot and boat. It runs for many kilometres between Abbadia Lariana and Colico, and the section between Lierna and Varenna is one of the prettiest, with views across the lake to Bellagio and the western mountains, stone terraces, chapels, olive groves and small villages in between. The guided hike we link to covers that stretch and ends in Varenna, so you finish in the village you would probably visit anyway, with a ferry or train to take you home. It is a good way to experience the lake on foot, away from the boats and the crowds, and a guide takes care of the route and the timing.
What the hike is
A guided walk from Lierna to Varenna on the Sentiero del Viandante. The tour title names both the path and the two villages, and the operator sets the meeting point, the pace, the length and whether lunch or refreshments are included, so read the details when you book. Expect a half-day walk on a mix of stone paths, steps and quiet lanes, with some ascent and descent, and a finish in Varenna, where the ferry landing and the railway station are within easy reach.
The path
The Viandante is a historic route that was used for centuries by traders, pilgrims and soldiers moving along the lake’s eastern shore when the lakeside road did not exist. Today it is waymarked and walked by hikers throughout the walking season, and each section has its own character. Between Lierna and Varenna you pass above the water with the Bellagio promontory in view, and the final approach to Varenna drops into the village by its old lanes.
Near Varenna a short side route climbs to the Castello di Vezio, a hilltop castle with a view, and the Fiumelatte, said to be one of the shortest rivers in Italy, runs nearby, though opening times for these should be checked before you go.
Season and weather
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with clear air and comfortable temperatures. Summer can be hot on the south-facing slopes, so start early and carry water, and in winter the path may be wet or icy in places, and the guide may adjust the route. Wear proper walking shoes with grip, not trainers, bring a light waterproof, and carry a snack in addition to any lunch included in the tour.
Making the most of it
Arrive in Lierna by train or ferry so that you are not rushing, and plan to spend the late afternoon in Varenna with a coffee on the waterfront. If you walk without a guide, the route is well signposted and a map from the local tourist office is enough, though a guided walk adds the stories of the villages and the older history of the path. Pair the hike with Villa Monastero or the lakeside lanes of Varenna, and treat it as a quiet counterpart to a day of ferries and villas.
What to expect
The experience
A guided hike on stone paths and lanes above the eastern shore, finishing in Varenna.
Best time
Spring and autumn mornings, when the air is clear and the climbs are comfortable.
How long
A half-day walk, with extra time for lunch and Varenna at the end.
Tips
Wear walking shoes with grip, carry water and a snack, and check the weather because the path can be wet or icy in winter.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers who want a quiet, scenic day away from the ferries and the villa crowds.
- Families
- Suitable for children who are used to walking for a few hours, with some steps and slopes.
- Couples
- A shared walk with lake views and a waterfront coffee at the end.
- Pair with
- Finish with Villa Monastero or a stroll through Varenna’s lanes before the train or ferry home.
- Time needed
- Half a day, or a full day with a long lunch and the village visit.
Good questions
What is the Sentiero del Viandante?+
An old path along the eastern shore of Lake Como that links lakeside villages high above the water, used for centuries before the road was built.
How long is the Lierna to Varenna walk?+
It is a half-day walk on mixed paths with some ascent and descent. The operator sets the exact length and pace.
When is the best season to walk it?+
Spring and autumn, when the air is clear and temperatures are comfortable. Summer can be hot, and winter paths can be wet or icy.
How do I get back from Varenna?+
Varenna has a railway station on the line from Milan and ferries to Bellagio, Menaggio and the Tremezzo shore.
Can I walk it without a guide?+
Yes, the path is waymarked, and a map from a local tourist office is enough, though a guide adds local stories.
